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318 rear main seal question....
#114102
09/02/08 03:47 PM
09/02/08 03:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
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I finally managed to pull the stock pan off my 390 stroker.
I had a fairly bad leak from the rear main seal area and I think I found the problem. I bought a new fel-pro seal and it has the extensions that fit into the cap while the other seal did not. Was this the proper that I installed the first time??? I have a nice milodon pan going in now and I wanted to get some input on this seal and make sure I get it right this time.....
I have about 6 hours run time so far on the engine and I am going to run the shell rotella synthetic oil.
71 Challenger 528 Hemi project
09 Gr Cherokee 5.7 hemi in da house!!
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114103
09/02/08 03:49 PM
09/02/08 03:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer
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OP
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Tampa, FL
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I wonder if I should have filled the channels next to the seal with silicone???? Here is a pic of the upper seal...
71 Challenger 528 Hemi project
09 Gr Cherokee 5.7 hemi in da house!!
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114104
09/02/08 03:53 PM
09/02/08 03:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer
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OP
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Tampa, FL
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lower end looks nice and clean...
71 Challenger 528 Hemi project
09 Gr Cherokee 5.7 hemi in da house!!
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114105
09/02/08 03:54 PM
09/02/08 03:54 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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yes, that could definetly be a problem.
My 340 has a leak too that I think is the oil pan gasket. it squished out when I bolted the pan down and I used a torque wrench.
On my 340, the cap has the grroc extending out from the rear main seal as well BUT it doesnt go all the way to the edge of the cap. The ends of the cap are flat. so I cut the additional extensions off the seal at that lip where the groove ended and used permatex on the flats.
USE PERMATEX ON THOSE EXTENSIONS. And put a slight dab on the ends of the seal where they meet.
btw, that orange rear main looks odd. it doesnt have the triangulaly lip like Id expect. could it be in backwards?
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
#114106
09/02/08 03:58 PM
09/02/08 03:58 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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use some brake clean and the seal with the ears brake clean will help the rtv to stick and seal and yes,it does look nice and clean 
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114109
09/02/08 04:11 PM
09/02/08 04:11 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Thanks.. I think it was installed correctly as the larger lip was pointed in towards the engine. Are you saying that I should trim the rubber seal portion that extends out past the upper cap area???
no, dont trim that. just add rtv to it.
See how your groove extends all the way from the seal to the outside of the cap past the ledge there? My #5 didnt have groove extending all that way. the groove (or more like a nitch) stopped at the ledge so the outside edge was flat.
Not sure why that is but it was.... Maybe its a 340 thing???
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
#114111
09/02/08 04:21 PM
09/02/08 04:21 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks.. I think it was installed correctly as the larger lip was pointed in towards the engine. Are you saying that I should trim the rubber seal portion that extends out past the upper cap area???
no, dont trim that. just add rtv to it.
See how your groove extends all the way from the seal to the outside of the cap past the ledge there? My #5 didnt have groove extending all that way. the groove (or more like a nitch) stopped at the ledge so the outside edge was flat.
Not sure why that is but it was.... Maybe its a 340 thing???
scratch that comment. I just looked at my pics and I DID have the groove extending all the way out.
What I did was cut the ears off the rear main so I could rotate the seal in the block and cap so the seal's parting line didnt line up with the parting line between the cap and the block. After I cut the ears off, I RTV'd them into the groove butting them up against the seal edges.
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
#114112
09/02/08 04:32 PM
09/02/08 04:32 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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btw, I did not put RTV under the seal itself where it fit into the round groove around the crank. Just rtv the flats where the ears are.
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
#114113
09/02/08 04:34 PM
09/02/08 04:34 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks.. I think it was installed correctly as the larger lip was pointed in towards the engine. Are you saying that I should trim the rubber seal portion that extends out past the upper cap area???
no, dont trim that. just add rtv to it.
See how your groove extends all the way from the seal to the outside of the cap past the ledge there? My #5 didnt have groove extending all that way. the groove (or more like a nitch) stopped at the ledge so the outside edge was flat.
Not sure why that is but it was.... Maybe its a 340 thing???
O.K. gotcha.... I wonder if the original seal was for a magnum engine and would that even make a difference???
Short block is very basic and cheap too...
Eagle cast 4.00" crank 318/340 main $330 delivered
Eagle sir rods $250 delivered
K/B forged pistons .030 over $395 summit
So for less than $1,000 you can turn a plain jane 318 into a torquey 390.... If you figure in the cost of a used 318 engine is usually free it makes alot of sense to build one of these. I should also mention that the lower end balanced out real good with only drilling the counterweights for a perfect balance. The sir rods are very light as are the kb forged pistons. They are only 3.940 in diameter and pretty short as well. I won't spin this over 6,000 but it makes great power and is by far the smoothest engine I have ever built. I ran a 13.75@102mph with 3.23 gear and ran 13.81 @92 with the new 3.73 gear letting off after the 2-3 shift.
It should run a 13.30 as it sits with the trans shifting properly now and maybe I can touch the 12's with my drag radials as my 60 foot is 2.1. Car is an 83 cordoba... TBF
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: RapidRobert]
#114114
09/02/08 04:36 PM
09/02/08 04:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer
OP
pro stock
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
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Quote:
Quote:
It was a total pain to get the old pan off as I had to remove the pax side header and jack the engine up as well... Car is an 83 J-body with hooker super comp headers 1 3/4" TBF
You definitely dont want to have to R&R the pan again.
Yes... I want to get it right this time.... TBF
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114115
09/02/08 04:47 PM
09/02/08 04:47 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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how tough was it to get the old rear main seal out with the crank in place? i figure it should be somewhat easy to remove
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
#114116
09/02/08 05:10 PM
09/02/08 05:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,586
Tampa, FL
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114117
09/02/08 05:17 PM
09/02/08 05:17 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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maybe we need a new post entitled "HOW TO REMOVE A REAR MAIN SEAL WITHOUT REMOVING THE CRANK"
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: tpabayflyer]
#114118
09/02/08 05:54 PM
09/02/08 05:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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If you aren't going to use the 'wings' on the seal turn the seal off center 3/4 of an inch or so to offset the parting lines of the seal from the parting lines of the block and retainer. Use some silicone in the grooves.
Clean it, if it's Dirty. Oil it, if it Squeaks.
But: Don't fix it, if it Works!
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: MoparforLife]
#114119
09/02/08 06:23 PM
09/02/08 06:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,735
Eagle, Idaho
Neil
The Doctor is in.
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The Doctor is in.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,735
Eagle, Idaho
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Quote:
If you aren't going to use the 'wings' on the seal turn the seal off center 3/4 of an inch or so to offset the parting lines of the seal from the parting lines of the block and retainer. Use some silicone in the grooves.
Yup. 
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Re: 318 rear main seal question....
[Re: Posest]
#114121
09/02/08 07:18 PM
09/02/08 07:18 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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mancini has good prices and the ultimate in customer service. I cant believe how many times Ive called them and changed my orders. they never had a bad attitude www.manciniracing.comask for WES. theres a moparts discount too I believe
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