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Mopar transmissions - how strong? #1140340
12/20/11 10:43 PM
12/20/11 10:43 PM
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Michigan, USA
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ramman5600 Offline OP
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I saw this posted on a craigslist ad and wondered what others thought.

" REMEMBER, start your burnouts in 2nd gear and shift to 3rd. Never shift from 1st to 2nd during a burnout with a Mopar transmission, it will EXPLODE! "

-C

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: ramman5600] #1140341
12/20/11 10:50 PM
12/20/11 10:50 PM
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las vegas
70AARcuda Offline
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Quote:

I saw this posted on a craigslist ad and wondered what others thought.

" REMEMBER, start your burnouts in 2nd gear and shift to 3rd. Never shift from 1st to 2nd during a burnout with a Mopar transmission, it will EXPLODE! "

-C




I guess I should have about 6 exploded trans...then..904 does not have the same problem as a 727 with the front drum being alot smaller..

As per Turbo Action with their cheetah valve bodies..

Chrysler/Amer. Mtrs. “727”, “904”, “998” & “999” Transmissions
All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you should
start burnout in first, shift immediately to second before tires come out of water. No matter whether
it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to deaccelerate
engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure tires never grab dry pavement.

Last edited by 70AARcuda; 12/20/11 10:53 PM.

Tony

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71 Dart Swinger 360 10.318 @ 128.22(10-04-14 Bakersfield)
71 Demon 360 10.666 @122.41 (01-29-17 @ Las Vegas)
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Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: 70AARcuda] #1140342
12/20/11 11:56 PM
12/20/11 11:56 PM
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Manitoba, Canada
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I thought the issue was no low-band apply when you have the shifter in 1.

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: ramman5600] #1140343
12/21/11 10:33 AM
12/21/11 10:33 AM
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Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck Offline
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Depends on the trans. a 727 is a strong trans. The thing about starting in second is for high stall manual valve body transmissions. I started in 1st (low) many many many times and have had zero issues, of course you don't want to wing the rpms either, just get them going and hit 2nd...then 3rd if you like. On this car I have a MVB and a 3800 stall so I start in 2nd.


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Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: ramman5600] #1140344
12/21/11 11:05 AM
12/21/11 11:05 AM
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Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Quote:

I saw this posted on a craigslist ad and wondered what others thought.

" REMEMBER, start your burnouts in 2nd gear and shift to 3rd. Never shift from 1st to 2nd during a burnout with a Mopar transmission, it will EXPLODE! "

-C




All depends on what valve body is in it... a manual
valve body you start in second because it wouldnt
apply the band(unless its a LBA valve body)... the
thing is that if in first(low gear) and you blow the
over running clutch(sprag) you will spin the drum
2.2 times faster than the engine RPM... a stock drum
is powered metal and with the centrifugal force will
come apart(explode) at like 14000 RPMs
A stock valve body has low gear apply(thats when
you let off the gas in low gear the trans and drive
line will pull the engine down)if it was a non LBA
it would just free wheel if in low
the

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1140345
12/21/11 01:34 PM
12/21/11 01:34 PM
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DPelletier Offline
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I'm starting to miss my TH400! First you have to warm up the car in neutral and now this "no burnouts in first geart" thing. I assume it's the same issue starting a burnout in Drive?



Dave


1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack 1974 'Cuda 2008 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Ram 3500 Diesel 2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel 2003 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Durango Limited [url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: DPelletier] #1140346
12/21/11 02:05 PM
12/21/11 02:05 PM
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buildanother Offline
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I also have never had the sprag failure issue, been racing on and off since late seventies. Used to always start in 1st, then went into at least 2nd during burnout. Used to always do a couple dry hops before starting line too. I stopped that though. I think the problem is lifting off of throttle while tires are wildly spinning still. I seen a guy with a bone stock-polyglass tire 440 car roll a sprag as he kept frying the tires in the water, attempting to get them to bite. The big problem apparently is running the car down strip after you already damaged the sprag.

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: buildanother] #1140347
12/21/11 03:53 PM
12/21/11 03:53 PM
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A gulag near you.
JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

I also have never had the sprag failure issue, been racing on and off since late seventies. Used to always start in 1st, then went into at least 2nd during burnout. Used to always do a couple dry hops before starting line too. I stopped that though. I think the problem is lifting off of throttle while tires are wildly spinning still. I seen a guy with a bone stock-polyglass tire 440 car roll a sprag as he kept frying the tires in the water, attempting to get them to bite. The big problem apparently is running the car down strip after you already damaged the sprag.




Low band Apply VB or not enough steam ???

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: JohnRR] #1140348
12/21/11 06:24 PM
12/21/11 06:24 PM
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chicagoland,usa
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buildanother Offline
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Got plenty of steam now,(500"), and lba, just need a chassis to put it in.

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: buildanother] #1140349
12/22/11 01:31 AM
12/22/11 01:31 AM
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Puyallup, WA
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StealthWedge67 Offline
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I always get confused on this one. Whenever it comes up, people start talking Manual valvebodies, but does this apply to a stock valvebody 727? And sorry to hi-jack, but what about a Trans-Go stage 2 VB?

Last edited by GEnsrud; 12/22/11 01:33 AM.

LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: StealthWedge67] #1140350
12/22/11 01:56 AM
12/22/11 01:56 AM
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HotRodDave Offline
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The t-flite gets a bad rap that would is a non issue with stock VBs. The stock VB applys the band in 1st gear and will not normaly blow up the drum. Only aftermarket VBs don't apply the band in 1st and that is when the problems begin. Not all aftermarket VBs eliminate the low band function, just choose one with LBA and you can do a burn out in 1st If you just have to have the LBA eliminated then you got to spend the bucks on a billet drum or not break drive trains or do burn outs in 2nd...

As for warming up the car in neutral that is only if something is wrong. If you just can't get rid of the problem (worn out VB or bushing) then there are aftermarket manual valves available for cheap that make the converter fill in drive. GM and Ford trannys all have there issues and nusciances also


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: HotRodDave] #1140351
12/22/11 08:20 AM
12/22/11 08:20 AM
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Hemi ragtop Offline
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Quote:

The t-flite gets a bad rap that would is a non issue with stock VBs. The stock VB applys the band in 1st gear and will not normaly blow up the drum. Only aftermarket VBs don't apply the band in 1st and that is when the problems begin. Not all aftermarket VBs eliminate the low band function, just choose one with LBA and you can do a burn out in 1st If you just have to have the LBA eliminated then you got to spend the bucks on a billet drum or not break drive trains or do burn outs in 2nd...

As for warming up the car in neutral that is only if something is wrong. If you just can't get rid of the problem (worn out VB or bushing) then there are aftermarket manual valves available for cheap that make the converter fill in drive. GM and Ford trannys all have there issues and nusciances also


Please explain the "start in neutral" comment. Does the converter drain after the engine is cut off? Why did stock 727's get started in park every day of their lives? I understand that the pump doesn't run unless in neutral, but the converter should be full from the last start up/drive.

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: HotRodDave] #1140352
12/22/11 09:15 AM
12/22/11 09:15 AM
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Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck Offline
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Quote:

The t-flite gets a bad rap that would is a non issue with stock VBs. The stock VB applys the band in 1st gear and will not normaly blow up the drum. Only aftermarket VBs don't apply the band in 1st and that is when the problems begin. Not all aftermarket VBs eliminate the low band function, just choose one with LBA and you can do a burn out in 1st If you just have to have the LBA eliminated then you got to spend the bucks on a billet drum or not break drive trains or do burn outs in 2nd...

As for warming up the car in neutral that is only if something is wrong. If you just can't get rid of the problem (worn out VB or bushing) then there are aftermarket manual valves available for cheap that make the converter fill in drive. GM and Ford trannys all have there issues and nusciances also




probably a good idea no matter rhe age or make of the vehicle to start it up and let it run for 20-30 seconds before you take off anyway. Not sure about anybody else but in my old cars the engine takes longer to warm up then the trans.


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Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: Mr.Yuck] #1140353
12/22/11 01:34 PM
12/22/11 01:34 PM
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Yes the converter does slowly drain after the engine is shut off. The trans does pump in park just not very much. Idling in neutral for a couple of seconds stops the hesitation going into gear that you can experience when going form park to a gear.

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: ramman5600] #1140354
12/22/11 01:44 PM
12/22/11 01:44 PM
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I already saw many damaged sprags, some totally damaged even behing STOCK 383! It all depends how you drive.
But everything is being said above.. stock valve bodies MUST be started and burned in 1st gear, only then you got low band apply! If starting in 2/3 or doing burnout from 2nd/3rd you got NO low band apply and the sprag takes it all.
With a GOOD manual VB as the ones I get from CRT or A&A you DO have low band apply (everyone that drives one without likes the idea of being a cripple for the rest of his life.. why not...) But even then I would recommend starting in 2nd for the piece of mind. But 1st gear got low band apply and protects the sprag.

And then we got the "evil" no low band apply VB that should be on the trash rather than in a transmission. For those: get a good insurance or change it!
Doing burnout in 2nd is one thing, but you have to start in 1st and I saw already a few sprags let go. Guy here even broke 3 Ultrasprags in 2 seasons with his no low band apply, about 700HP. Then last year it blew up and almost cut his legs off! NOW he got low band apply and a billet drum. But humans sometimes need to almost loose their lifes till the change...

Everyone his decision...

my 2cents

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: 6o4o] #1140355
12/22/11 01:50 PM
12/22/11 01:50 PM
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Quote:

.. stock valve bodies MUST be started and burned in 1st gear, only then you got low band apply! If starting in 2/3 or doing burnout from 2nd/3rd you got NO low band apply and the sprag takes it all.





So should I be starting a burnout in 1st, Drive or Second in my stock 727 440-6 car?



Dave


1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack 1974 'Cuda 2008 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Ram 3500 Diesel 2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel 2003 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Durango Limited [url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: DPelletier] #1140356
12/22/11 01:59 PM
12/22/11 01:59 PM
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Quote:



Quote:

.. stock valve bodies MUST be started and burned in 1st gear, only then you got low band apply! If starting in 2/3 or doing burnout from 2nd/3rd you got NO low band apply and the sprag takes it all.





So should I be starting a burnout in 1st, Drive or Second in my stock 727 440-6 car?



Dave




I think you'd better just park the damn thing... Sounds like breathing on it the wrong way may cause it to explode... Driving on the street the exploding drum is virtually a non-issue, just don't do big burnouts out of the water puddle... That shock when the tires grab dry pavement can flip the sprag.. Thats a Mustang specialty... At the track if you have a manual valve body you start your burnout in second gear...


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Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: ramman5600] #1140357
12/22/11 02:16 PM
12/22/11 02:16 PM
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The stock Valve body applies the low/reverse band in manual low, but not drive/breakaway.
I believe manual second with a stock valve body just hold second gear, but starts off from drive(low)/breakaway which would be worse than starting in manual low and then shift into second.
The no burnout in first gear, start in second gear is for manual valve bodies without low/reverse band apply.

Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #1140358
12/22/11 04:01 PM
12/22/11 04:01 PM
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Quote:

Quote:



Quote:

.. stock valve bodies MUST be started and burned in 1st gear, only then you got low band apply! If starting in 2/3 or doing burnout from 2nd/3rd you got NO low band apply and the sprag takes it all.





So should I be starting a burnout in 1st, Drive or Second in my stock 727 440-6 car?



Dave




I think you'd better just park the damn thing... Sounds like breathing on it the wrong way may cause it to explode... Driving on the street the exploding drum is virtually a non-issue, just don't do big burnouts out of the water puddle... That shock when the tires grab dry pavement can flip the sprag..




Parking it is the only possibility in it's current state!

On one hand, I have no plans on a reverse manual valve body or running slicks......OTOH, I plan on doing burnouts on the street and since I don't have a trunkmonkey with a water bucket, it will be done on dry pavement.

Based on this thread I guess I'll just start it in manual Low.

Dave


1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack 1974 'Cuda 2008 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Ram 3500 Diesel 2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel 2003 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Durango Limited [url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
Re: Mopar transmissions - how strong? *DELETED* [Re: 6o4o] #1140359
12/22/11 04:09 PM
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