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it reads the same thing now as it did when i first tried it. 14 at cruise. 12.5-13 at WOT. thats my whole point. what it says on the street and chassis dyno doesnt reflect what will happen at the track.

my good friend buider and tuner of some really fast cars, leaning on my fender, pointed at the numbers on the top of my carbs and said, not many guys would do that.

i would like to know, if guys ever looked at the old jetting tips from the old engine manual. popsicle sticks and jetting all over

I'm sorry if some dont believe me. i'm just trying to be helpful. i'll crawl back in my hole now

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I believe you.... just trying to get the whole story...Like I said......it's just a number......but it sure makes tuning driveability NICE and WAY easier than tuning by the seat of the pants, which is what most guys want one for......

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READ CAREFULLY ABOUT USING THE PORCELAIN TO READ JETTING AND READ THE LAST SENTENCE ABOUT POPPING THROUGH THE EXHAUST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I actually experienced that back when I was 17.....Put a fresh motor in the car and it ran great (at least I thought it was great) on the street and at the track.....I then uncapped the exhuast and the car picked up from 13.20's @ 100 to 12.70@ 105..........after racing I capped it back up and drove home......I get almost home and decided to hammer on it and it had a slip pop out of the exhuast......it never crossed my mind that it was the plugs, so after changing valve springs and doing ALL kinds of other stuff, a friend suggested putting a fresh set of plugs in it...I told him they were new and had less than 30 miles on them.......I went ahead and did it and it fixed it!!! Freaked me out and learned a good lesson......Thing was, I knew it was rich because it'd picked up so much by uncapping the exhaust.....

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READ CAREFULLY ABOUT USING THE PORCELAIN TO READ JETTING AND READ THE LAST SENTENCE ABOUT POPPING THROUGH THE EXHAUST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I actually experienced that back when I was 17.....Put a fresh motor in the car and it ran great (at least I thought it was great) on the street and at the track.....I then uncapped the exhuast and the car picked up from 13.20's @ 100 to 12.70@ 105..........after racing I capped it back up and drove home......I get almost home and decided to hammer on it and it had a slip pop out of the exhuast......it never crossed my mind that it was the plugs, so after changing valve springs and doing ALL kinds of other stuff, a friend suggested putting a fresh set of plugs in it...I told him they were new and had less than 30 miles on them.......I went ahead and did it and it fixed it!!! Freaked me out and learned a good lesson......Thing was, I knew it was rich because it'd picked up so much by uncapping the exhaust.....

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READ CAREFULLY ABOUT USING THE PORCELAIN TO READ JETTING AND READ THE LAST SENTENCE ABOUT POPPING THROUGH THE EXHAUST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I actually experienced that back when I was 17.....Put a fresh motor in the car and it ran great (at least I thought it was great) on the street and at the track.....I then uncapped the exhuast and the car picked up from 13.20's @ 100 to 12.70@ 105..........after racing I capped it back up and drove home......I get almost home and decided to hammer on it and it had a slip pop out of the exhuast......it never crossed my mind that it was the plugs, so after changing valve springs and doing ALL kinds of other stuff, a friend suggested putting a fresh set of plugs in it...I told him they were new and had less than 30 miles on them.......I went ahead and did it and it fixed it!!! Freaked me out and learned a good lesson......Thing was, I knew it was rich because it'd picked up so much by uncapping the exhaust.....

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yep and how many people do you see that say they keep adding jet until the porcelain has tanned? little do they know they have probably fouled out the plug. it may still run but it wont be right. I think there are few that really know how to read a plug or have the tools. really I don't pay much attention to the fuel ring on a N/A motor you can see what you need on the base ring in most cases.I know the boosted cars pay a lot more attention to that. and also I have found the fastest way down the track is not good for a bracket racer. rich is not good for being consistent.I was just offered to use a LM2 from a friend on here. I'll get it when I get chance and see where mine is and if it compares to where I think it's at.I know mine is over rich on the idle and transition and should be mildly lean up top.don't care about cruise at all.

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READ CAREFULLY ABOUT USING THE PORCELAIN TO READ JETTING AND READ THE LAST SENTENCE ABOUT POPPING THROUGH THE EXHAUST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I actually experienced that back when I was 17.....Put a fresh motor in the car and it ran great (at least I thought it was great) on the street and at the track.....I then uncapped the exhuast and the car picked up from 13.20's @ 100 to 12.70@ 105..........after racing I capped it back up and drove home......I get almost home and decided to hammer on it and it had a slip pop out of the exhuast......it never crossed my mind that it was the plugs, so after changing valve springs and doing ALL kinds of other stuff, a friend suggested putting a fresh set of plugs in it...I told him they were new and had less than 30 miles on them.......I went ahead and did it and it fixed it!!! Freaked me out and learned a good lesson......Thing was, I knew it was rich because it'd picked up so much by uncapping the exhaust.....

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yep and how many people do you see that say they keep adding jet until the porcelain has tanned? little do they know they have probably fouled out the plug. it may still run but it wont be right. I think there are few that really know how to read a plug or have the tools. really I don't pay much attention to the fuel ring on a N/A motor you can see what you need on the base ring in most cases.I know the boosted cars pay a lot more attention to that. and also I have found the fastest way down the track is not good for a bracket racer. rich is not good for being consistent.I was just offered to use a LM2 from a friend on here. I'll get it when I get chance and see where mine is and if it compares to where I think it's at.I know mine is over rich on the idle and transition and should be mildly lean up top.don't care about cruise at all.

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I totally agree with your method of plug reading. But without a clean neutral to check it out on top end your wasting your time for WOT readings. IMO

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exactly take a look at the video I posted and see what the first thing they say and it's not MY method just the way I was taught and what I believe.

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READ CAREFULLY ABOUT USING THE PORCELAIN TO READ JETTING AND READ THE LAST SENTENCE ABOUT POPPING THROUGH THE EXHAUST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I actually experienced that back when I was 17.....Put a fresh motor in the car and it ran great (at least I thought it was great) on the street and at the track.....I then uncapped the exhuast and the car picked up from 13.20's @ 100 to 12.70@ 105..........after racing I capped it back up and drove home......I get almost home and decided to hammer on it and it had a slip pop out of the exhuast......it never crossed my mind that it was the plugs, so after changing valve springs and doing ALL kinds of other stuff, a friend suggested putting a fresh set of plugs in it...I told him they were new and had less than 30 miles on them.......I went ahead and did it and it fixed it!!! Freaked me out and learned a good lesson......Thing was, I knew it was rich because it'd picked up so much by uncapping the exhaust.....

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yep and how many people do you see that say they keep adding jet until the porcelain has tanned? little do they know they have probably fouled out the plug. it may still run but it wont be right. I think there are few that really know how to read a plug or have the tools. really I don't pay much attention to the fuel ring on a N/A motor you can see what you need on the base ring in most cases.I know the boosted cars pay a lot more attention to that. and also I have found the fastest way down the track is not good for a bracket racer. rich is not good for being consistent.I was just offered to use a LM2 from a friend on here. I'll get it when I get chance and see where mine is and if it compares to where I think it's at.I know mine is over rich on the idle and transition and should be mildly lean up top.don't care about cruise at all.

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I totally agree with your method of plug reading. But without a clean neutral to check it out on top end your wasting your time for WOT readings. IMO

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exactly take a look at the video I posted and see what the first thing they say and it's not MY method just the way I was taught and what I believe.

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OK, didnt see the vid..duh.

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its amazing your car can even run without one let alone drive a couple hours to the track, run a 10.50 @3700lbs and drive home

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How is that so amazing?

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just making a point that you obviously pay attention to how your car is running to run as well as it does. IMO experience with the wideband, it will not show lean cylinder to rich cylinders. my six pack has jetting all over the place. i do what i have to do to make all cylinders look equal. a wideband just wont tell you that unless you have bungs in all cylinders.

as for guys washing down cylinder walls, sure, i know many bracket racers that slap something together and as long as they can run consistantly thats all they care about. that makes me crazy. puffing black smoke driving around the pits and they dont care. then i see other guys times pickup as the weather gets hotter because there car is so lean.

i'm not saying not to have one, i have one in my car and its ON every time i go for a drive. but can it fine tune a crossram or tunnel ram? it may help a little but you wont get your tune right unless you look at plugs. if you only use an wideband to tune, you could have lean cyl and rich cyl and not know what is going on at all

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Hey Ray.....On your Six Pack, is that a factory intake? 7MPH is like 100HP from just changing the front jets!!!..... I'm trying to figure this out in my head.....

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its amazing your car can even run without one let alone drive a couple hours to the track, run a 10.50 @3700lbs and drive home

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How is that so amazing?

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just making a point that you obviously pay attention to how your car is running to run as well as it does. IMO experience with the wideband, it will not show lean cylinder to rich cylinders. my six pack has jetting all over the place. i do what i have to do to make all cylinders look equal. a wideband just wont tell you that unless you have bungs in all cylinders.

as for guys washing down cylinder walls, sure, i know many bracket racers that slap something together and as long as they can run consistantly thats all they care about. that makes me crazy. puffing black smoke driving around the pits and they dont care. then i see other guys times pickup as the weather gets hotter because there car is so lean.

i'm not saying not to have one, i have one in my car and its ON every time i go for a drive. but can it fine tune a crossram or tunnel ram? it may help a little but you wont get your tune right unless you look at plugs. if you only use an wideband to tune, you could have lean cyl and rich cyl and not know what is going on at all

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Hey Ray.....On your Six Pack, is that a factory intake? 7MPH is like 100HP from just changing the front jets!!!..... I'm trying to figure this out in my head.....

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... we also have heard stories about indy single planes with number 1 wet plugs

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Sounds like a Vietnamese hooker's complaint: "Go way! You number one wet plug!"

Hey, I started this thread, I can say that... right?

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no that was on the sheetmetal ram i had at the time. the stock intake was jetted all over the place in line with the DC manual jetting tips. the weiand xram was also jetted all over the place with dams glued to the floor.

my point was just dont hold that AF meter as gospel to what is actually going on. a Six pack is the worst but we also have heard stories about indy single planes with number 1 wet plugs

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Cool....I was picturing a stock intake.....was wondering if any of the FAST guys have experimented.....

On the stock intake with the DC jetting, were the plugs all in line?? You don't happen to know the jetting, do you? I've never even seen one of those manuals, but I know what you're talking about.......

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I was thinking of buying one of the kits. Which one would be the best? A dual or single kit?
My car has x pipe exhaust.
Tuning is not my strong suit.
This is for street tuning on a 472 Hemi.
Thanks
Dave

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Yes. Actually the peak was made a little richer with a smaller air bleed, flattened out the fuel curve, might have hampered the emulsion a little at the lower RPM's to lean it that ended up being good. I had considered changing it before leaving the house as my Racepak O2's showed the same, but figured the car had run so well at the track we would make the first pull as it came off my car. Plugs and MPH are the best way to make major changes, the O2's can show little details to help the fine tuning.Mark Whitener

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