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With traction, your rear will go before the trans.

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i have the 8 3/4 in it, and the dana almost ready to go

I know traction will be an issue, i have 26 x 11.50 x 15 hoosier QTP and ss springs.... Ive been following the leaf link and think i may change my dana in and do this. The dana is mark williams 40 spline axles, richmond gears (4.56) and MW 40 spline spool. Mine will be a street car with occasional track abuse.

any chance with traction ill be into the 10's with a good tune on it?

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Quote:

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With traction, your rear will go before the trans.

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i have the 8 3/4 in it, and the dana almost ready to go

I know traction will be an issue, i have 26 x 11.50 x 15 hoosier QTP and ss springs.... Ive been following the leaf link and think i may change my dana in and do this. The dana is mark williams 40 spline axles, richmond gears (4.56) and MW 40 spline spool. Mine will be a street car with occasional track abuse.

any chance with traction ill be into the 10's with a good tune on it?

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With traction, your rear will go before the trans.

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I broke 2 23 spline third gears with an 8 3/4 rear in the car,the second trans broke when I power-shifted third and broke the grade 8 bolts off the pinion snubber when it slammed into the floor.
If you have not broken a 23 spline box you either have very little traction,a slipping clutch, or not enough horsepower
Gus

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Just throwing this out there, but a 4 inch crank in a 340 block doesn't care one bit about the rpm drop going into second with a 3.09 gear. Only the tires care

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Now that's what I wanted to hear.

How about the 1.67 (2nd) to 1:1 (3rd) shift?

I'm thinkin' that 4.25 crank with an aluminum flywheel would really do the deed.

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Just throwing this out there, but a 4 inch crank in a 340 block doesn't care one bit about the rpm drop going into second with a 3.09 gear. Only the tires care

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If you have not broken a 23 spline box you either have very little traction,a slipping clutch, or not enough horsepower

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NEVER broke a 2.66 trans. Did break input shafts on 2 3.09 transmissions. I guess my slicks are slipping, along with my clutch and I'm down on horsepower......... what to do to get 2 1/2 tenths and a 10 second run ????????

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Remember, something has to give or parts will break due to the SHOCK.

I prefer a clutch that locks and doesn't slip. I rely on a bit of tire spin at the track to keep from breaking.

On the street it's almost impossible to get even the best tires to dead hook, so you'll probably be safe there.

If you are a pro racer or trying to bracket race, then the car is more consistent with a dead hook and a slipping clutch at the launch. That setup is more expensive and less streetable. Not saying it's not streetable, just LESS streetable.

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