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I definitely understand the appeal of parts that work well and don't need any work, but is it that hard to centerpunch and drill five holes? How accurate are the parts we buy from overseas for applications like this? Do you think the guy working on a drill press with a worn out jig in china cares more than you do about getting it dead on? Is it only ok to use parts that bolt on how you get them in the mail from summit?

I always thought making stuff work and solving problems with simple tools was one of the best parts of hot rodding and also a skill Americans are rapidly losing. It was pretty easy to check the runout once the rotors were mocked up. Not everybody has a thousand bucks laying around for lightweight billet parts.

I happen to like my scarebird setup and if I hadn't bought it I probably would have cobbled together a similar setup without the luxury of a mill, lathe, and foundry. It's the same bull crap with Harleys- people pay over a thousand bucks for billet aluminum brake setups that half the time are plumbed to the wrong diameter master cylinder. My shovelhead is upgraded from 10" single piston disc brakes to 11" rotors with four and six piston tokico brakes off crashed crotch rockets on eBay. It stops awesome and the brackets are home made.

Why all the mud slinging?

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Why are you getting your undies all in a bunch because someone, ME, chooses not to turn a brake job into an all day affair modifying parts to fit?

Center punching something by hand and drilling it in either a drill press or freehand is a bunch different in the final outcome than doing it with equipment with digital readouts. I guess the saving grace to the scarebird setup is you are using the precision of the factory hub to attach the rotors that have hole clearanced for the studs to pass thru them, if you screw it up you can just open it up to the next size

The setup I have has the wheel studs done by hand thru the stock hubs and it has .010 of run out , you'll definitely feel that at 100mph. I knew this going in , I wanted the rest of the brake parts since I had a stock set of unmodified hubs to work with.

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I definitely understand the appeal of parts that work well and don't need any work, but is it that hard to centerpunch and drill five holes? How accurate are the parts we buy from overseas for applications like this? Do you think the guy working on a drill press with a worn out jig in china cares more than you do about getting it dead on? Is it only ok to use parts that bolt on how you get them in the mail from summit?

I always thought making stuff work and solving problems with simple tools was one of the best parts of hot rodding and also a skill Americans are rapidly losing. It was pretty easy to check the runout once the rotors were mocked up. Not everybody has a thousand bucks laying around for lightweight billet parts.

I happen to like my scarebird setup and if I hadn't bought it I probably would have cobbled together a similar setup without the luxury of a mill, lathe, and foundry. It's the same bull crap with Harleys- people pay over a thousand bucks for billet aluminum brake setups that half the time are plumbed to the wrong diameter master cylinder. My shovelhead is upgraded from 10" single piston disc brakes to 11" rotors with four and six piston tokico brakes off crashed crotch rockets on eBay. It stops awesome and the brackets are home made.

Why all the mud slinging?

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Im going to be putting disc brakes on a 72 dart i just bought.I cant seemed to decide which route to go,WILWOOD DISC BRAKE kit or go with the scarebird conversion.I want to stay with the small bolt pattern front wheels,Centerline 15x3 or 15x4s,not sure which width.It seems like the scare bird kit would be alot cheaper,but that worries me alittle.Any thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370548530298?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400218429944?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

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problem with wilwood is they used 1/2" lugs not 7/16" and i don't think the hub will fit in the stock wheels. god knows what they did something so stupid. will most likely have to go to an aftermarket wheel. there are more choices then there used to be but still not all that many when compared to large bolt pattern...



been looking into it myself for jamies dart. i have stuff to go over to big bolt but she loves the painted wheels. going big bolt turns into a complete front end rebuild ( may as well since its that far apart). then i have to get another set of wheels and pain them body color. just seems like too much at this point. i figure if i go scarebird she can keep the wheels she has now. seems to be the cheapest route, parts are easy to get and down the road if i want to put my alter-k in her car i can probably sell the scarebird set up all done for close to what i have in to it..

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What rotors does the scarebird use to keep the 4" bolt circle ?

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Wilwood or Scarebird? Wow, talk about between a rock and a hard spot.

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Come on John, it isn't that tough. You just put the rotor down in the mud so to hold it firm, then you use a hand held drill with a rusty drill bit. If you don't have a big enough drill bit you just wallor out the hole a little bit by chewing on the sides. The wheels might wiggle a bit but nobody cares about that.

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boy what was i thinking. i was just going to run the rotors down to the local machine shop and have them drill a 4" bolt circle in them for me.. but if a rusty drill bit and mud to hold the rotor works for me maybe i'll just do that.