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set the transfer slots for both pri and secondary then start the engine. to adjust idle rpm, use your timing and not the screw on the side to raise and lower your idle rpm. adjust AF screws. readjust timing. recurve dist. done

if you have a msd dist, i dont think you can recurve easy like a mopar one because they suck

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MSD dist. suck , Don't know which one you say is hard to dial in . I loved mine on my SB, i'll NEVER use a MP dizzy again, there a big PITA IMO with sloppy shafts too boot.

This is the one i use & its simple/simple/simple, just need an aftermarket box, but who cares everyone gets them anyways, The MP boxes suck, at least the orange units.

http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/8534/10002/-1

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So how do I adjust it out of that if its past the idle cuircut

Kasey

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Well I did all that and the idle screws are only about 1/4 to 1/2 out, and it dosnt die with them screwed inn. Do i need different idle air bleeds?

Kasey

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Did you have the transfer slots squared before you
tried to turn in the mixture screws... if they were
open to much you werent on the idle circuit

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Well I did all that and the idle screws are only about 1/4 to 1/2 out, and it dosnt die with them screwed inn. Do i need different idle air bleeds?

Kasey

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Did you have the transfer slots squared before you
tried to turn in the mixture screws... if they were
open to much you werent on the idle circuit

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Well I did all that and the idle screws are only about 1/4 to 1/2 out, and it dosnt die with them screwed inn. Do i need different idle air bleeds?

Kasey

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Did you have the transfer slots squared before you
tried to turn in the mixture screws... if they were
open to much you werent on the idle circuit

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yes, I turned the carb over, squared up the slots, was pretty close to closed, wasnt opened very far at all, and I tuned it from there. still didnt die out after screwing them inn.

Kasey

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Well I did all that and the idle screws are only about 1/4 to 1/2 out, and it dosnt die with them screwed inn. Do i need different idle air bleeds?

Kasey

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Did you have the transfer slots squared before you
tried to turn in the mixture screws... if they were
open to much you werent on the idle circuit

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yes, I turned the carb over, squared up the slots, was pretty close to closed, wasnt opened very far at all, and I tuned it from there. still didnt die out after screwing them inn.

Kasey

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fuel is getting in the motor from somewhere. if it was me, i would take the carb off, completely drain it and blow air into the little hole under the throttle blades and see if you feel air comming out the airbleeds with the mixture screw all the way in or its getting alot of fuel out of the transfer slot.

check to make sure you dont have a blown PV also

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I had similar issues with my 750 mighty demon with "idle-Eze". 1. Try dropping the float levels a little more. 2. Make sure the idle air bleeds ( outers ) are the correct size. Mine were supposed to be .070" per the spec. Actually mic'ed .067". When I corrected that, I could kill the motor ( barely ) when I turned the mixture screws all the way in. Idled best with the mixture screws 1/2 turn out. BTW, you only want to "square" the transfer slots on the primary side. Secondary butterflies should be set to the bottom of the transfer slots ( not visible from the underside at idle. If you have "idle-eze", base line it at 1 1/2 turns out.

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Well I guess Ill drill the primaries. What is a good starting point for the drill size? I have a small pinvise, and some torch cleaning drill bits, so I do have some very small drill bits.

Kasey

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Well I guess Ill drill the primaries. What is a good starting point for the drill size? I have a small pinvise, and some torch cleaning drill bits, so I do have some very small drill bits.

Kasey

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i wouldnt drill anything yet. what exactly is the problem?

it is diesling after you shut off? to much air and fuel getting in the carb. drilling holes will make it rpm higher. you only drill holes if you have to open the throttle blades to far to get the idle rpm you desire

how is the fuel getting into the motor with the AF screws seated? this your problem. i would suspect they are not really seating. demon carbs have that funky bowl that goes over the metering block. is it stopping the AF screws from turning in all the way?

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This is a quick fuel holley, not a demon. Its on my demon though .

Everything seems to be ok, and nothing seems plugged. The problem is a rich idle. Will not propperly tune inn, and wont kill off when screws are turned inn telling me Im past my idle slots.

Im very close to going nutso here. Pluss ive set every carbon menoxid detector of in the whole city block it seems like. There was 3 of them going off in the shop last night.

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Well I guess Ill drill the primaries. What is a good starting point for the drill size? I have a small pinvise, and some torch cleaning drill bits, so I do have some very small drill bits.

Kasey

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i wouldnt drill anything yet. what exactly is the problem?

it is diesling after you shut off? to much air and fuel getting in the carb. drilling holes will make it rpm higher. you only drill holes if you have to open the throttle blades to far to get the idle rpm you desire

how is the fuel getting into the motor with the AF screws seated? this your problem. i would suspect they are not really seating. demon carbs have that funky bowl that goes over the metering block. is it stopping the AF screws from turning in all the way?

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This is a quick fuel holley, not a demon. Its on my demon though .

Everything seems to be ok, and nothing seems plugged. The problem is a rich idle. Will not propperly tune inn, and wont kill off when screws are turned inn telling me Im past my idle slots.

Im very close to going nutso here. Pluss ive set every carbon menoxid detector of in the whole city block it seems like. There was 3 of them going off in the shop last night.

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thats funny

take a pic of the throttle blades and transfer slots on the pri and secondary as you have it right now.

did you try calling QF?

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Kasey, Like i was telling you as we discused, Its deiseling do to a high idle, If you feel its rich & have pin drills, start opening up the 4 outer bleeds in .003" increments, Do not drill holes in the butterflies, that is a "last" resort, I'm sure the mix screws will start responding once you open up the IABs .003", those will be the outers, I'm guessing there .070", open them to .073", I had to open mine to .075" front & .073" back with my PF 750, The quik fuel is based on that floormat, Theres something else you need to check, make damn shure the gasket on the PV is not seeping, If there is a good seal on the MB & PV gaskets there should be no fuel behind the block in the "vacuum well" when you pull it off after draining, If its puddling in that area thats your problem, there should also be no heavy puddling in the intake, Have you checked the plugs too make sure there not foiling out, This also creats havick when trying to tune the idle.

Another thing you can do IF the IABs do not respond well, i had to do this on my PF, There are IFRs in the metering blocks, they should be screw-in bleeds, you can decrease that size by .003" on each (all 4). The carb can be tuned out for a clean idle without major headaches trust me, just some patiance & a general idea of what the engines telling you. BUT 1st. Make sure the plugs are fine & the PV/Bowl gaskets aren't leaking. DO NOT drill the butterflies just yet.

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if you can tell me what IFR you have in your blocks now, maybe i could trade you if i have smaller ones. they are the brass jets near the top corners

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Kasey, Like i was telling you as we discused, Its deiseling do to a high idle, If you feel its rich & have pin drills, start opening up the 4 outer bleeds in .003" increments, Do not drill holes in the butterflies, that is a "last" resort, I'm sure the mix screws will start responding once you open up the IABs .003", those will be the outers, I'm guessing there .070", open them to .073", I had to open mine to .075" front & .073" back with my PF 750, The quik fuel is based on that floormat, Theres something else you need to check, make damn shure the gasket on the PV is not seeping, If there is a good seal on the MB & PV gaskets there should be no fuel behind the block in the "vacuum well" when you pull it off after draining, If its puddling in that area thats your problem, there should also be no heavy puddling in the intake, Have you checked the plugs too make sure there not foiling out, This also creats havick when trying to tune the idle.

Another thing you can do IF the IABs do not respond well, i had to do this on my PF, There are IFRs in the metering blocks, they should be screw-in bleeds, you can decrease that size by .003" on each (all 4). The carb can be tuned out for a clean idle without major headaches trust me, just some patiance & a general idea of what the engines telling you. BUT 1st. Make sure the plugs are fine & the PV/Bowl gaskets aren't leaking. DO NOT drill the butterflies just yet.

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if you can tell me what IFR you have in your blocks now, maybe i could trade you if i have smaller ones. they are the brass jets near the top corners

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do you have a drill bit set to measure your IFR's? what size is the carb?

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do you have a drill bit set to measure your IFR's? what size is the carb?

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The carb is a 950hp from what QF told me. It has a 850 base plate and a 750 main body. The base plate measures slightly smaller than what an 850 should, but a lot bigger than a 750 base plate. Like I said this carb has me all confused.

Ill take it back appart and measure the meetering blocks for you guys.

Kasey

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" Who's on first".

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Here is my front metering block.

I havent measured the holes yet, but they are small.

Kasey

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Should I invest in a set of billet blocks??

Kasey

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Square up the transfer slots on the primaries,

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This may be a silly question, but what does this mean when you say square up the transfer slots?
How do you do this?
thanks

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I finally figured it out from another member.

The transfer slots are about 1/8" long and a few thousands wide, and to square them up is to make a square out of them when view from the bottom of the carb. its only like 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn from dead closed to achieve this.

Kasey

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Here is my front metering block.

I havent measured the holes yet, but they are small.

Kasey

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I bet those AF screws are not seating inside the metering block like they should

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Well after having my metering blocks out again, and talking with a tech guy at AED I think I may have either a warpped metering block, or a tiny crack where its pulling inn ectra fuel. So I ordered a set of Billet metering blocks from quick fuel. 93 bucks, and even if it dosnt cure my issue its not bad cash to spend on.

Kasey

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