Quote:

---

Am I seeing things, or is the bushing in that mount junk?

---

Quote:

---

Well since no one answered your question as to what caused it, I will tell you what caused mine to break.
The rear end twist's up when applying torque to it.
In my case I didn't have a pinion snubber or traction bars,also weak leaf springs.
This allowed the rear to twist enough that the drive shaft would break the tail shaft housing because of the mis-alignment. Example( put a long pole on the tail shaft and lift up ..snap)
Do you have a snubber? how far from the floor pan is it?
Hope this helps, and yes go back through the trans. just to be safe.

---

ok i try to answer it,
i think he left so hard that the trans fluid filled the tailshaft up, and with the rotation of the rear shaft it build up pressure, and it had no way to vent the pressure so it had to break the rear case!!
hahhah lol

Quote:

---

I thought if you ran solid engine mounts you had to have a solid trans mount?

---

I sure wouldnt... reason why is flex in the car...
if you have 2 points solid (now thats a straight line)
it can pivot BUT if you have a front plate, mid plate
and a solid trans mount, now you have 3 points which
doesnt mean its still a straight line, specially when
you induce flex... I always use a rubber trans mount
and I have never broke a tail shaft.... some guys
use the solid trans mount as a engine limiter... I
prefer to put a engine limiter on the engine(I happen
to use 2 of them)

Quote:

---

Just to clarify the wording a bit more here. You pushed the yoke into the tailshaft all the way and then pulled it out 1 inch for clearance? As Mr P had said, it needs 3/4 inch to travel. not 1 inch sticking out. If you didn't have this travel, it will bind and break. Many a person has fallen to this mis hap before. [/quote

]

I guess i am not following what you are saying. but yes if i remember right.i pushed the yolk in all the way and pulled it out a inch and then measured for my drive shaft lenght. are you saying that was the wrong way of doing it? if so what is the right way? thanks mopar65

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Just to clarify the wording a bit more here. You pushed the yoke into the tailshaft all the way and then pulled it out 1 inch for clearance? As Mr P had said, it needs 3/4 inch to travel. not 1 inch sticking out. If you didn't have this travel, it will bind and break. Many a person has fallen to this mis hap before. [/quote

]

I guess i am not following what you are saying. but yes if i remember right.i pushed the yolk in all the way and pulled it out a inch and then measured for my drive shaft lenght. are you saying that was the wrong way of doing it? if so what is the right way? thanks mopar65

---

that's the right way

Quote:

---

Have that DS checked again. When I broke mine it was "supposedly" good too. Brand new from Mancinis balanced and all.

After it took out the tailshaft housing I took my shaft to a GOOD DS shop (Dynotech) not only was my "NEW" DS not balanced worth a damn, it was bent like a banana.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I thought if you ran solid engine mounts you had to have a solid trans mount?

---

I sure wouldnt... reason why is flex in the car...
if you have 2 points solid (now thats a straight line)
it can pivot BUT if you have a front plate, mid plate
and a solid trans mount, now you have 3 points which
doesnt mean its still a straight line, specially when
you induce flex... I always use a rubber trans mount
and I have never broke a tail shaft.... some guys
use the solid trans mount as a engine limiter... I
prefer to put a engine limiter on the engine(I happen
to use 2 of them)

---

Solid mount the engine...but never solid mount the trans...use the Poly bushings.
Something needs to give a bit.