who cares about the roll bars. i still want to see pictures of the mega-hot wife. jk(sort of). i hated putting bars in my car as well. went with swingouts on both sides and kept the bench seat in for comfort during street driving. if you want to play at the track, you have to play by their rules or go to another track. it's up to you at that point.

IMO unless you race a lot or have a desire to run much faster, I would avoid the rollbar and just run as close to that 11.50 number as possible.

I know that the 11.50 ET is the cut off for the roll bar , but when you look at most accidents at the track , most cars are going less that the 115 MPH that you will be going with that 11.50 ET. But depending on the accident type whether that roll bar will save your butt or not. Bounce of the rail, not needed, roll it over off the rail, you will wish you had a cage. I seen a guy lose it at the 1/8 mile at a little over 100MPH and roll his car, This was a race car, not street, there was nothing recognizable on the car. Lucky he had a cage. I know i'm not racing mine again until It gets caged.

I used to race a 340 Dart back in the early 80's. It was this 66 Dart. It ran a best of 11.90's and when a balljoint let go this is what happened. The rollbar bent but did its job and saved me. Rule was 11.99 had to have a bar back then. Anything can happen as I never thought my car would roll. Its worth at least a 6 point bar if its faster then 11.50 and you plan to race it a good bit. Ron

It really doesn't matter how you "feel" about it. Those are the rules....

After working at a track for 10 years and seeing a few cars crash I would say PUT A BAR IN IT.If you plan on going any quicker.Like I used to tell the young kids "it hurts if your going 50 or 150"

The wife sound intelligent also. Too bad you are ashamed of her and won't show a picture.

I understand completely, just yanking your chain a bit. Smart, modest and hot, sounds like you better keep your ducks in a row.

This is why you need a bar,she walked away from this https://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/phot...e=1&theater

Without a helmet,harness etc you'd be safer without a roll bar in a street car. The steel tubing would be a baseball bat on steroids in an accident.

It is up to you, but I would not do it...

11.50 is fast enough for a Street car, and fast enough to win in pro class against 9 second cars if you leave well and are consistent.

The problem is this: We started out going 12.00's in a 67 cuda with a mild 340 and when it dipped into the 11.90's, (years ago) we were told it had to have a bar. So in goes the bar and the extra weight slows it down to 12.10's where no bar is needed...

Then we get the brainwave to add a ntirous kit and soon the car is a low 11.00 ride. If more is better, then too much is just right so up the jets and it is a 10.80 car until the timing retard on the digital 6 fails and melts a couple pistons, spins bearings...

OK, on to a 471 stroker 400 motor with 906 heads running 10,50's and this is not enough so let's put on some 440-1 Indy Alum heads to get closer to 10.00's. The indy heads work great, but now it is running 9.80's and we are in trouble unless we turn the bar into a cage and get an NHRA competition liscense.

All good, lets upgrade the heads to CNC ported version where a 9.50 is the result until we grenade the stock block...

Now a Kieth Black Alum block 557 bullet with 955HP (corrected) and the car goes 8.89 at 151 but the chassis can barely handle the power.

Time to back half it???

Seriously, if it is a street car keep it at 11.50 and enjoy it.

If you want to go faster, look on Racing junk and buy someones complete tube chassis A-Body and go fast.

My

Good luck,

Arnie