You can always make a new voltage limiter for the fuel gauge--adjustable and digital. Pretty easy. I have one on my fuel gauge.
In a nut shell it allows you to dial in a voltage anywhere from about 4-6 volts so you can boost or lower your gauge reading.
Doesn't solve linearity problems, but allows you to increase or decrease (but not both) the reading at any level.

my new one gets similar readings.took it back out and hooked up wires.key on operating by hand reading are good at gauge.put back in same crap.maybe topping out on tank?bend float arm thens hits pickup tube.wish i had orig to compare float swing.

wow hear we go borrowed a sending unit from friend. Stock 40 year old unit. diffrences are swing arm on unit 1/2 inch longer after radius.diffrent ohm readings on swing of old compared to new. measuring from center of float to pickup tube. slightly over 10 ohms diffrence in same spots along sweep. both read almost same at each end of sweep. old 80.8 new 77.9 on empty old 9.4 new 10.6. where it really varies is along sweep at 47 ohms on old unit gauge reads 1/8 tank on new at 49 it reads empty.

Has anyone tried to put the old swing arm assembly on a new pickup ?

by the way the old sending unit makes gauge readings more accurate, not perfect but more usefull.not 8 gals left on empty. I also get diffrent readins on gauge when installed in tank as compared to on bench. yes good ground and 5 volts to gauge

Cut the swing arm assembly off a good factory unit and attach to the tube with screw type hose clamps thru the 2 slots in the swing arm assembly. And connect the wire to the repo strap type wire.

We will be offering our 1/2" sending units for Mopar A-bodies in about a week or so. They are not on our website yet but will be similar to this one:

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/1084_fordsend.html

Will have 1/2" feed and return (AN fittings optional). The 1/2" return is handy if you are using a return/bypass style regulator.

You can order it with or without AN fittings. You can also order it with a 1/2" to 1/4" reducer fitting for the return line. Cost will be $169 plus $20 for AN fittings. The reducer fitting is $6.

We have an A-body gas tank with a hole cut in the side so we can see the position of the float. We've tried to place the float very close to the bottom of the tank when the arm is at the bottom of it's travel and very close to the top when the arm is at the top of it's travel.

On our other sending units, we have found that it is common for the gauge to read a little higher or lower than with the stock sending unit (maybe 1/8 tank different) but if you feel it is too far off, you can return it and we will rework the arm. Bending the arm so the float is lower makes the gauge read higher. Bending the arm so the float is higher, makes the gauge read lower.

Everyone has a different opinion on how the gauge should read. I run our sending unit in two of my cars. I have them adjusted so the car runs out of gas when the needle on the gauge is right on the "E" mark. I prefer that over having the car run out of gas at some unknown point somewhere below "E". However, most people are accustomed to the idea of having a few gallons left in the tank when you get to "E" so that's how we try to set them up.

BTW, most cars sold in Europe have gauges that read "E" when you are actually out of gas but in the USA, gas gauges traditionally are set up so you still have a few gallons in the tank when the gauge reads "E". I wonder why?

Your logic makes sense to me.

Can I PM you here, e-mail, or? When do you think the sending unit will be available (shipped) if I order in the next few days?

FWIW, I am soon to try your starter (I purchased it from you a few years back). That and your cap adapter.

Dunno, we drive a lot more automatics in this country too...

Dart,

Please email me for more info. Email address is shown here:

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/contact.html

will you be offering 1/2 inch sending unit pickups for 70 b-bodys?

Only A-bodies for now. We may add other applications later.