I’m an amateur buffer also. Lots of good tips already mentioned, but I’ll throw in my .02.

I use a Craftsman drill press with a radial/rotating head. Makes it easy to put the wheel at a good angle. It’s also able to set at different speeds, handy when using different-diameter wheels. Also puts the wheel out in the air with no guards/structure around it to interfere with handling the part. I use it because that's what I had at the time, and now I wouldn't use anything else.

Taping trim to wood is a good idea, hopefully I’ll remember it next time I buff!

When buffing stainless, I’ve found that a bit of heat seems to melt and flow the metal. When buffing a piece of long trim, whilst pushing it from 1 hand to the other (with the wheel in between), you can get a feel in one hand for the right amount of heat and set the pace that way.

Yep, wetsanding can cut down on buffing time, but sanding takes time also. Sanding is ‘safer’, though, and less likely to have a part-launching event.

Regarding gloves and a face shield:
Gloves are a paradox IMHO. They’ll protect your skin, but are more likely to get caught by rotating items. And it’s a buffing wheel, so worst-case is you’ll get an annoying 1st-degree burn. Either way, your fingers shouldn’t be that close.

Wear a dust mask under the face shield, and maybe some swimmer’s goggles. If I don’t, within a few hours after buffing I feel ‘fuzzy’ – my eyes, nostrils, etc, feel like there are fine cotton particles in them (because that’s exactly what happens!).