Quote:

The best subframes for A-bodies are made from square tubing. Looks like an Abody in your post, sorry if this is for a different car. The pics are of my '71 Dart.

You can do 2*3 square tubing but you have to cut the floor. I did 1.5*3 (I think) tubing and had to press against the pan just a little bit but no cutting. These are invisible from the side, you have to stick your head under to see them.

Here are some pics (sorry they're not the best)Any body see a problems with this set up? Looks pretty slick and stout to me, am i wrong?

EDIT: Don't seem to be able to get the [image] code to work, if a mod could help, I'd really appreciate it. - Thanks. Links should still work though.

Front: (torsion bar crossmember - need to relocate e-brake cable on driver side-I don't have one) You can see I didn't want to cut my speedo cable when I went to race trans-LOL)

http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k381/smoberley/IMG_1286.jpg

http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k381/smoberley/IMG_1287.jpg

Rear - I like how this totally encapsulates the rear subframe, it appears to reinforce the torque boxes pretty well.

http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k381/smoberley/IMG_1285.jpg

You can see how far it goes over the rear subframe in this pic.

http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k381/smoberley/IMG_1288.jpg

The car is much stiffer with these subframes in place, and I have a solid place to put the jackstands.

The Mopar units look like toys compared to these, and hang down lower.

The same buddy who welded these in for me also did a really nice loop that goes between the two subframes that's removable and everything (but you can still slide the DS in and out with the loop installed). he's a wizard. The loop he did is between 5 and ten pounds lighter than the bolt on deal that was there before.



Hope this helps

Steve