I wouldn't think the ECU and dist pickup went out at the same time (what ECU). I'd start by taking off the coil neg pri wire and grounding the coil terminal (not the wire you removed)w a jumper wire w alligator clips on each end repeatedly like Morse Code, tap tap tap w ign key on & see if the coil secondary wire held 1/4" from a ground makes sparks & if so this tells you the coil/ballast & the their supporting wiring in the ign1 (run) circuit are good. Repeat the test as a helper turns the key to start but 1st take off the yellow "ign" wire from the starter relay to disable the starter just to avoid running the batt down and to elim the noise distraction. If it sparks the ign2 (crank) circuit is good. That only leaves the dist and the ECU and their supporting wiring. Seperate the dist 2 wire connector & ohm it (specs in archives) & check the reluctor gap & might pull it & spin it & reportedly (haven't checked one) it will generate 1 volt AC on your VOM if the pickup is good. For the ECU plug in a known good dist from your stash & w key on spin the shaft w your free hand & see if the coil to dist wire (dist end) held again 1/4" from ground kicks out good blue sparks. This tells you ALL is good in the hood ex the dist that's still in the eng. Can hide an ECU (or MSD) under the battery box & it'd be a bit away from the heat but still in the eng compartment. I'd suggest find/isolate the prob then make an informed decision & with your dist already curved I'd want to keep it. I have yet to run MSD stuff but they have a few reported reliability probs (but of course you only hear the bad news) and I like some of their gadget stuff (adj advance is one) & as said the multiple sparks may aid starting & a slight gain elsewhere but imnho you wont get your moneys worth EDIT meant to say starter relay not starter solenoid (for the ign2 crank test)