I just bought a cheap Harbor Freight flat gram scale for ten dollars and change and it weighs as accurate (so far ) as my buddys high dollar one. rig up a fixture in addition to your dial indicator stand & get the rod level sideways and horizontally (bore centerlines level) and weigh the small end plus seperately weigh the piston/rings/pin/locks for a reciprocating weight figure then reverse the rod/level it & weigh it w the bearing halves for rotating weight. Dont forget to zero the scale for the tare weight of the fixture you rig up. post these figures or call your machinist. this will let you if you choose to (or on a future build) polish the forging marks out of the sides of the rods and a bit of judicious grinding on the piston etc all to lighten everything then just need to hand over the crank & your math & your bill will be MUCH cheaper. The scale/fixture & 2 wheels to slip on the rod to hold the 2 rod bore sizes level all is less than the labor for a shop to weigh everything since you are now paying just for spinning/drilling the crank. I'm w Sheldon I'm a stickler for it being balanced. Yes depends on the difference between the old/new. Maybe OK (close enough) as is but I cant leave anything to chance. If you do this post your differences: (4) figures