Quote:

Measure the circumference of the balancer and devide by 360 degrees,would probably be easier with a metric measuring tape marked in milimeters.



That's right, and not all that difficult. Start by making sure the factory mark is correct. Make a "positive stop" by putting a bolt in an old plug shell. Hacksaw the crimp off the back, drive the guts out of the plug, and braze in a bolt or tap the shell to thread one in.

Like this:

http://www.650motorcycles.com/Isky3.jpg

Unhook the battery!!

Pull no1 plug, and feel around with something like a plastic hanger or wire so you know you won't force the stop in on the piston.

Gently turn the crank with a socket, until the crank stops. Make a temporary mark on the wheel under TDC. Repeat going CCW. When you get done, you'll have two marks, and "true" TDC will be halfway in between. If you are lucky, the original mark will be that mark.

Now, crawl under with a small flex tape and measure around the wheel CAREFULLY. Do it twice just to make sure.

Let's say the balancer is something like 24 1/2 inches around. 24.5/360 is .0681" for each degree, or .681 for 10 degrees

Of course you can do this with metric. Do NOT use dividers or calipers. You must use a tape or flexible rule, so it "rounds" over the circumferance.

Then just scribe and file the marks right into the wheel. If you don't have a scribe, sheet rock screws are cheap

When you get done, you can carefully overlap the TDC and 10* marks on the wheel and the tab, and they should line up. You can then step up to the same deal, using the 10*/20* marks, and the 20*/30 marks, etc.

I used to mark every 10*, check them, and then use dividers to mark halfway in between, for 5* markers.

This is not absolutely accurate, but it's close enough for most of us, and it's closer than using a delay light that's out of calibration.


My health ain't all that great anymore, but I bet I can still do this not much more than a couple of hours.