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The reason for the post was, I ran into a chevy 434cid dyno sheet bragging contest @ a local builders shop the other day and got to see the dyno #s on alot of the trucks and rails we run with Every one was over 700 ponies from all different builders with a guy Scott Scharoff< I think that was the builders name not sure of the spelling but sounds like the russian vodka> having built several of the engines, all in the low 700hp range under 8K, It seems that if I step up a class my W5 rig wont be too competitive @ around 600hp, my engine has not been on a dyno so I don't know the real hp of my engine but I think 600 is close, some of the trucks I have already out run in the past but the rails and the light jeeps kick butt, So I have been kickin around what it will take to build a 700hp small bock mopar to compete, I have a good set of W5s that flow 325@ 600 and I dont remember the 700 flow #s but there was a small increase over 600, I don't trust my 40 year old factory block or the 6 other small blocks I have collected to run a bore over 4.06, I have a good 4"light crank and a set of BME 6.123 rods and several solid rollers I can reuse, just lacking a solid game plan, money is a bit tight this year so throwing 12k into a small block is not a smart option, this is a mud motor so the torque needs to be way up with the hp curve




If you find a nice block, and use your parts you should be able to be competitive with your competition from what you've stated.
The heads might need a little attention, and you may need a vacume pump/low drag ring pack and you might not.
Can you strike a deal with these dyno guys to dyno the engine before and after?
I do this alot, charge the customer alot less to do the engine before and after, on same dyno to see the gains and find out how much you had from the start.
Just a thought....


Brian Hafliger