Better ask your local guy how much he's going to charge you to recore a rad. Several years ago, recoreing a rad was almost $200 here and I'm sure it hasn't gotten any cheaper.

As far as rad tanks are concerned, newer (46-48) have an extra piece on the cap area so it can be pressureized, before that they were not pressureized, so you would have to modify the cap area to run a modern pressurized system, might even still have to modify the 46-48 tanks. Something to think about.

The lower hose connection is at a strange angle, (upper hose is too I believe) because the rad was built for an inline 6 or inline 8, the hoses wrap around towards the engine. They have to be cut and modifyed to clear a v8. We messed around with a few original rads on my son's 47 to try to work on the 360 in it, never was sucessfull. It was easier to modify the front sheetmetal to clear a modern rad. Ones from mid 70s 318 trucks are reasonably small and will cool a mild small block. They are cheap to buy new @ just over $100 last fall, I think I only paid $200 for the big 3 core HD truck rad at NAPA last year for my 4x4, and it was USA made. I'd modify the sheet metal a bit before I'd drop $700 on any radiator.

I used the rad from a v6 Dakota in my 39 and only had to drill new holes to bolt it and spread the two side sheetmetal pieces to match the rad core (thinking about 2" per side.) Gene