Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by BrianT
Thanks for the replies and advice everyone. I guess I was looking for someone to tell me that it wasn't necessary when I knew in my heart that it was?

So far, the plugs are out, the block plate is on as is the flywheel. I will bolt the bellhousing on and get the dial indicator set up. I have a buddy who says he can come by this weekend to help spin the engine while I write down the readings. It seems pretty straight forward from there. I have watched numerous YouTube videos on the subject.

Thanks for the heads up about the size of the dowels. I was looking on Summit's page and they list Ford/Mopar as .500", but if you look at the reviews there are comments from the Mopar guys saying that are too tight and needed to be modified. This saved me a HUGE amount of frustration in the near future. I will order the correct dowels from the link provided above.

Hopefully, I'll update this thread later in the week with good news. Thanks again!


in my experience the QT's are closer to spec than the Lakewood's, normally only requiring a .007 dowel if any beer


I'll second that ... I struggled to get my Lakewood dialed in. I think it was warped. I purchased a new QT and using straight dowels, measured using the 45* method and writing down. The QT was 0.002 out. I was happy. I've used the RobbieMac offsets on other engines; they work great.


1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ