A couple Rules of thumb I like for a PURE STREET DRIVEN (Occassional week-end strip/grudge night) small block stroker Combos anywhere from 390-440":

PBR (Pittsburgracer) mentioned in a another thread that head flow "targets" at particular lifts are "essential for great overall torque PLUS a motor that will pull strong to at least 6000 rpm.

He stated 200CFM at .300 and I agree 100%.... you're leaving torque on the table if you can't.

the key to this "Recipe" is I like to see (and build around) At Least:

200 CFM @ .300
250 CFM @ .400
265 CFM @ .450
280 CFM @ .500

That's it, I wouldn't worry very much about over .500 as long as it doesn't stall. Mid lifts carry the momentum (torque) through the ports. Note: Stock Edelbrock RPMs won't hit these target numbers (~10 to 25 cfm lower at all points) without some VJ/Port work.

With at least a 10.5:1 Bottom end with decent quench and aluminum heads. 10:1 for Iron heads.(*)
A decent Single plane manifold like a Victor 340, the manifold needs to outflow the head. I generally don't like the Super Victor unless your running deep gears and ~4000 stall, this combo would work a typical 9 1/2-10" 3200-3500 stall and mid 3 gears. The Performer RPM would be best for the 318 based 390 but generally I prefer the Single plane because I don't believe (not 100% sure) an out of the box Performer RPM will flow the higher head flow numbers without at least some work.
A good Carb at least 800cfm with proper attention to tuning/Jetting and accelerator pump timing. A well-tuned 800 AVS will work very well here too.
1 3/4 minimum 3" collector (1 /7/8 x 3 1/2" is best on the 408 and bigger motors or lighter A body cars, but for a B or E body with full exhaust I'd honestly stick with the smaller pipes)

Cam: From 232-238 @.050 Intake and 236-244 @ .050 on the exhaust and .520-560" lift, 108 to 110 Spread and I like the cam in (early) at least 4-6 degrees. Lean to the lower side of the scale for anything 318 Based.
A Hydraulic roller will make another 30 lb/ft across the board over a flat tappet but for some people it's cost prohibitive and not in the budget, and there are still a few really stout hydraulic FT cams out there. You only need ~145 degrees duration @.200 on the Intake (~150 @.500 min exhaust) with the head flow I described to hit the target hp/tq...so Anything above that with the same Seat-to-seat is a bonus...and will carry the tq/rpm higher. EX: Both the Bullet 231/239 @. 050 and the Comp 232/237 @.050 Magnum "circle track" Hydraulic Flat Tappets work very well in a combo like this if you're on a budget.
Solid FT or SR add 8-10 degrees @ .050 to both numbers (lash compensation) but use a nice easy on the springs, Street lobe like the Bullet/Ultradyne .4033, (I run a 251/259 .605 lift .4033 lobe on a 109 spread in my 440 W2.

Distributor should have ~14-20-ish initial and 30-34 total (Optimal is 100% dependent on your weight/stall and gearing and how good your Compression/Chamber efficiency is (*)) all in by ~2000-2400. Basically thats the range, as much as it wants on the low side and as little as you need to make optimum power on the high side.

This is a pretty solid recipe for a motor that will make you feel like you really have a stroker in the car, And I've built several Mopars as well as the Ford SB Windsor 427" (4.04" x 4.17") in my Cobra replica around this basic recipe, and I have a friend that used this same recipe for a 442" 401 AMC (made 545/545 on the engine dyno) in his CJ-7 Jeep, and it runs 12.oh's in the 1/4.....and that's with a TH400 trans at 3800 pounds and with 33" Mudders on it!! That same motor in a 3000 pond AMX would go in the 10's.

BTW: This also works for a stock stroke 440 big block and at least one 455 Buick...Buicks like wider 112-114 lobe spreads and the cam in later though.

You're looking for at least 1.2-1.25 LB/ft and Hp per cube and AT LEAST 90% of peak torque available from ~3200-5600. Yes, you can get more ( +1.3 TQ/HP cube) with a spicier motor and more porting of the heads and manifold, but chances are you won't even notice it or miss it on the street...and this is 93 pump gas friendly.

Again, this is a 90% STREET Motor where roll-on/part throttle and ~2500-ish highway cruising is very important. If you want Neck-snapping roll-on torque like a 427 Shelby Cobra would give you....This combo does that...100%.

In a lot of ways it's easier to build a 600HP small-block ( ~260-ish @.050. ~650 lift Solid roller, 11.5:1, Big headers, 300-ish cfm @ .550, because it pretty much works for any 400+ " small block) than it is to build a fun and reliable 500+ hp street motor. But in a race motor you don't really care about 2600 rpm cruising because you're typically running 5000+ stall on slicks.