...Never use the bolts to take up any gap between the flexplate and the converter lugs nor install any shims to take up the gap. Find the cause and fix it. There are reports that some aftermarket crank registers are improperly machined and reports of the flexplate-to-crank bolts preventing proper pull up...especially with 8-bolt cranks.
This is precisely what I'm worried about: the flexplate-to-crank bolts are butting up against the converter body as I'm pulling the converter up against the flexplate.
I am about to head back out to the garage to troubleshoot further. Got a small snake camera and I'll see if I can get better close-up photos.
While I hear what you guys are saying, I've got to be honest: pulling all this apart to fix it correctly (assuming the crank may be the actual root cause here) is a non-starter. I might as well park things for another couple of years.
If I was to use machine shop shims to take up the gap, what is the potential downside to taking this approach? Assuming I can confirm that the converter pilot does correctly mate up to the crank (1/8" is the min I see in various docs), I think that would positively locate the transmission and is the most important thing to assure, is it not?
Regardless, I honestly appreciate all the feedback. I know doing things RIGHT is the right approach, but at this stage I either figure out a viable way of living with this, or like I said above: keep it parked for another day!
