Originally Posted by dvw
I've installed them for customers. I saw one break on a S/S Challenger. Fortunately it happened in the burnout. Not much advantage vs cost. What would you adjust? Mine are homemade. Cut the stock ends off. Turned them in a lathe untill they fit into .090" moly tubing. That coupled with urethane bushings works very well. And theyre lighter than the aluminum parts. stronger to boot. Back in the day Nascar Mopars used an upper ball joint welded into the K frame. Then a fabbed strut rod was threaded onto the joint stud. Funny racers worry about bushings slowing down travel due to bind. Then spend $1000's of dollars buying shocks to slow travel.
Doug

The strut rods I have are adjustable for length at both ends, the UCA's have Heim joints at the eccentric end so you can dial more camber / castor if needed. IIRC I fitted these 2003 ish.
Just my experience but after fitting them the 60ft times did did improve. Also, I do now, have good shocks on the front (Santhuffs), I am guilty of worrying about bind and did need to slow travel but it was the landing from big wheelies that made me choose them grin. Last pass 60ft was a 1.29 which I didn't think was too bad with a 3.73 rear gear and we're hoping to improve with a new converter.


'74 Challenger..9.46 @ 145.9 1/4, 6.001 @ 118 1/8 so far. 4023lb !!! # N/A, Marsh performance 655ci, Indy Maxx, T/R, Indy 600-13 X's, Street legal, pump gas, full interior, Cal-Tracs, mufflers, 3:73's and real 10.5 radials.
9.51 @ 142.4 1/4, 6.003 @ 114 1/8 with our old mule KB, 572-13, 580 wedge.
RHD '68 Barracuda Fastback 323ci street/strip. Best ET 13.88 @ 99.03