A hiem joint as a rod end uses a straight bolt, unlike a factory rod end that uses a tapered seat to secure it and make wobble impossible where it conects to the center link or steering arm. Even a slight bit of tolerance at this juncture is a place for ware to start, and leads to seviere slop eventually. If you choose to use a hiem joint with high angularity ( enough for full travel!) Then the bolt or shaft that goes through the rod end should have at least three times its diameter in support where it passes through the steering arm.
I discovered a serious wobble in my dart because i used a 1/2 inch bolt and only about one inch of support at the steering arm. The hole in the steering arm was seriously egg shaped from wear over the years . If you can find a pin with a 7 degree taper ( mopar factory taper) or similar, then use a reamer to produce the proper hole in the steering arm, with enough thickness for support It will be mutch better. Also the pin that would have the tapered end will also have a tighter fit in the rod end. Off the shelf bolts often have maybe an extra . 002 or .003 clearance, or reduced diameter, which is going to allow some movement that you don't want. Check out Speedway Motors hotrod suspension parts, thay may have parts to fit your app.

Last edited by gregsdart; 12/25/22 04:14 AM.

8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky