You need to just read a little on Voltage versus current. Kind a like the difference between pressure and volume in a fluid system. They are not the same, but they are related.
Think of a wire rating. Current determines the size of the copper. The voltage rating is based on the insulation. It is current that charges the coil. Voltage is the potential that pushes the current. No voltage, no current, no path to complete circuit no current. Disconnect the ground wire on the coil that goes to a point system and turn on the ignition and measure voltage. You will read 12 at the + and negative terminal, yet there is no charge in the coil to fire the spark plug. It is current that creates the magnetic field in the coil that collapses and creates the High voltage that fires the plug on the secondary side. That is high voltage low current. Can't create or destroy energy in a system. Think transformer. Which an induction coil IS NOT, but a CD system behaves that way. Your talking apples and oranges.
There are better coils made GM made them. They can charge faster and endure the higher current charge, but they are bigger. The faster the coil charges the higher the rpm the motor can go.
The ignition is a system and all the component in the system see the voltage and current. Why do high current draw system on your car have replaceable relays vice just operate off the wire directly? There is an optimal current that the points can absorb without rapid wear. There is an optimal current the coil can handle without overheating, all to create an optimal high voltage at the plug of about 15 to 20 thousand volts that can jump a spark plug in less-than-optimal conditions. Cold, bad fuel fouled etc..., at an rpm of less than about 5200. That is the point system. The initial Electronic was about the same rpm, because they used the same coil, you just eliminated the wear and adjustment of points/gap.
Jumper the ballast an run your car. The coil will over heat and become erratic, before the points wear, but keep changing coils as you burn them up and you also have to change the point rather quickly because they have burned away also.
The ballast protect the coil but also establishes the max current that the points can handle with a reasonable wear per time.
MY,my,my, who understands what
Do you know about resistance, AKA OHMs? how about MHO, conductance? How about volts, amps, watts and their relationship to each other in both direct circuits and alternating circuits? electricity?
Do you know what a coil is? Is it a transformer? Is it a step up or step down transformer?
AKA, a ignition coil is a step up transformer, it converts 12.+ volts or whatever the voltage is to the coil to fire the spark plugs: work: The coil will produce enough VOLTAGE to jump the EASEST gap, the spark plug gap or the gap out of a wire to a ground
At idle when warm it may take 14,000 Volts to fire the plugs and at 7500 RPM at WOT it may take 40,000 Volts
It would surprise me that today's ignition coils know the differences between 6.0 volts, 8.8, 12.6 and 200 volts on the input side
I got to thinking about coils last night and remember that all coils are not create equal. Some have different ratio of windings internally which affects the time it takes that coil to fire and how soon it can fire again, Mopar had a different coil deigned and made for the early Mopar race chrome box ignitions.
MSD did the same thing when they came out with their first 404 series race boxes that require using the Mallory Pt# 28890 coil, it would multispark up to around 6000 RPM and then fire once for each distributor signal to that coil.
Those coils would make a spark look like it came out of a welder when you held the coil wire away from a ground and tried cranking the motor over with the coil wire out, they hurt like holy HELL when you got shocked by one
CDI ignitions compared to point type ignitions do the same thing, they charge the coil to make it fire the spark plugs, correct
Magneto due that also, correct?
As far as current degerming the size of the wire how do you come up with that? The wire gauge, size, determines how much current, amperage, it will carry safely before failing, melting or blowing open
I'm done
