Alright, I've been watching this post all day, and I was'nt going to relpy to this post because I am NOT a SB engine "expert" but then again I don't see anyone else stepping up to the plate to help answer your questions..... (EDIT I Type WAY too slow LOL) So here is my best shot, if anyone else out there knows more than this or has corrections to make, be my guest and fire away........

I think "Clonestocker" and I confused things in the other post because we were discussing pushrod oiling. 98 % of guys out there running a solid roller in a SB Mopar are not going to oil through the pushrods. The reason "W5Dart66" and Clonestocker want to do it is because of the T&D non Shaft Mount Rocker arms REQUIRE pushrod oiling. AND to oil through the pushrods requires Bushing the block and special roller lifters. But if you don't fall into the T&D crowd don't worry about bushing the block (unless you want to correct lifter geometry and make it dead on perfect) Bushing a block is an expensive machining operation (~$400-$700 depending on the shop)

Let's start off with a factory block.... In a 273/318/340/360 if you want to run a Solid Roller: You have 2 options...... First was the OLD school way, Tubing the block and running any old .904" Mopar Solid Roller lifter. The link bars interfering with the block would all depend on what brand they were etc. But if any clearancing was required it would be minimal. TODAY we now have the Crane/Comp lifters that do not uncover the oil galley hole, and can be used without tubing the block. The only disadvantage I can see of these lifters is the fact that if one pops out you lose oil pressure instantly where as if you had tubed the block or bushed it, you would'nt lose oil pressure.

NOW if we have an R-3 or 340 Resto Block..... We have issues LOL. The R-3 has alot of extra material around the head bolt bulges, which interferes with the link bars on even the "supposed" Correct MP Roller lifters as Weedlayer found out. An R-3 will have to be clearanced for the link bars no matter what brand lifter you try to stick in there..... AND there is water behind the "meat" you are trying to remove, so CAREFULL material removal is the key here.... But once the block is clearanced, you just need and intermediate shaft with Bronze gear, due to billet steel roller cam being so hard. And obviously you need valvesprings that can handle the radical ramp profiles of a roller camshaft.

Sorry about all the Bushing the block confusion on the other post. But yes I did talk to W5Dart66 and the reason he had to bush his block for pushrod oiling WAS excessive clearance as I thought it was. But like I said before he is in the 2% minortity of guys who HAVE to bush their block.....