Sniper -- I believe you're correct with the info.
I've also learned that rear adjustable prop valves are more truly needed for light-weight rear-end cars... heavier cars can do away with any need for such a prop valve when brakes are same design (drum-drum or disc-disc).
Perhaps, it wouldn't hurt to have an adjustable prop valve (used only for the rear)... but the need would have to be determined by brake testing... i.e.: rear lock-up. I'll determine that as I progress with the brake swapping..... possible Wilwood front calipers.. or swap to the front Viper setup from Dr Diff.... pending how my other rims fit over the setup.
Note: My master cylinder is an aluminum Mopar unit (new) from an ~1980s pick-up... installed many years ago as a weight-savings vs the original heavy cast-iron unit.... has been A-OK for me.
I like to when I can learn from others' mistakes. I was told to just use the old Drum Drum Distribution Block and add an adjustable on the rear by an older friend who has done lots and lots of rear disk kits. To just make a cut with a tube cutter and splice one in.
There is an episode of Roadkill Garage that David Freiburger and Steve Dulcich put a rear disk kit in a car. They spent all the evening and into the night fighting the proportioning valve that came with the kit. The next day put the old
Distribution Block back in with a screw-type adjustable valve spliced into the rear brake line in no time at all. they tossed the new that never worked right proportioning valve in the trash can and said they would never ever do it any other way.
