By the book, all plugs out, charger on battery, 4 pulses, throttle open. The main thing on the pulses is just do the same on each cylinder. Plugs all out makes it spin faster, and keeps you from missing head gasket blown between two cylinders. Try a compression test with the throttle open and then with it closed, you should see a few more lbs with it open. Also a running compression test can be valuable as well. One cylinder at a time, with the engine idling you will see fairly low compression, blip the throttle and the compression should come up to 80% of the cranking compression, tests for loose valve guides, broken valve springs, worn cam lobes, carbon build up on the intake valves. Also dry and wet compression test, if compression is low, squirt a little oil and retest, if compression goes up it's the rings, if it does not it's the valves or head gasket. I still prefer a leak test, main reasons is battery charge does not affect results, and I can leak test an engine not in the car. When buying a used engine first thing I do is leak it, saved me money several times. After it's built on the engine stand leak it, just to make sure you did it right, again saved me several times.