Thanks!
I think I’m going to stick with cast rings, I think moly rings need a perfectly squar cylinder and are harder to seat. I have a few bore that are 1/w thou difference here and there. I’m lucky as there is Zero ridge on the block!
First off, I've never seen an engine with any kind of run time not have a ridge. May be small, but it's there. As to cast vs moly, the only thing I would put cast in is a lawnmower. I've re-rung engines with up to 0.009" taper with moly and had no problems. But this is just my
, it's not my engine.
You would think normally there would be a slight ridge even if you can’t see or feel it but I think this engine got hot maybe or something to glaze the cylinders and give it a premature removal from the car in favour of something either bigger or new. I mic’d It and there’s no ridge. The cam that came out of this engine was kinda lame too so maybe the motor was yanked as the owner felt it just didn’t have much power. Who knows.
The bearings and crank all looked great, I’m going to re-use them as is.
I was planning on using cast rings as they seat easy, they are very common and used a lot, I’ve had moly rings in other motors too and was just told at the time that they really need to be ‘seated well’ and to do that you should keep the rpm’s varied for the first while. Any recommends on breaking in moly rings if I go that route? Is there a potential that they don’t seat or get broken in at all.
Most my cylinders are pretty square, reflecting the low wear. There is small variances between .003-.006 in each from top to bottom not necessarily reflecting taper but at random spots along the travel of the cylinder.
Any input for an inexperienced engine builder (me) is appreciated.
