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turbo, are you sure the pump is good and the bushings/sealing rings are working properly? Seems like a ton of preload to get it to work.
Pump is good. New babbit converter bushing installed. Teflon sealing rings also. Pressure is consistant in all forward gears and rock steady.
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There is more to it than just line pressure, the entire trans build and valve body comes into play. For that big motor and heavy vehicle, I would want a valve body designed for at least 120 psi, and prefer 5 clutches in the front drum. Just my opinion. I don't know what valve body you have, but it sounds like a modified stock one. Call John at CRT and order one of his valve bodies.
The transmission is built up with good components. It has a 5 disk direct with Alto red eagle clutches. 4.2 lever with solid red eagle wide band. Completly rollerized including thrust, tail support and output yoke. Bolt in super sprag as well. The VB is a modified stock unit built by a reputable vender that I won't name. It looks like a modified TF-3 kit when I inspected it but without the blue PR spring. I have built a lot of these for myself over the years but never actually measured the pressure with a gage. I always trusted the adjustment method given by the instructions. In this case, it was preset by the vendor who sold this to me.
Allan G.
1970 Challenger w/572 Hemi street car and my pride and joy.
1986 T-Type with 272 Stage 2 Buick V6 engine - True 8 second street car. Just updated the engine and put down 928 HP @ 35# boost to the ground on chasis dyno.
1976 Cee Bee Avenger Jet Boat - 460 Ford powered.
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