Most reman boxes are not remanufactured so much as simply dis-assembled, inspected, excessively worn parts replaced, new gaskets installed, and put back together. Short of a new boxes, all reman boxes will be like this. Adjust freeplay as suggested earlier and see if that tightens things up a bit. The Borgeson unit may be the best example of a recirculating ball box out there. They are newer, have tighter tolerances, and an improved feel.



Are you using a gauge at all or just a string/tape measure? Garage alignments are only as good as the effort you put into them and you can do the basic as well as thrust measurements, but will lack some precision. You are right that you need height decided before you dial in alignment. You didn't mention it but I'd suggest setting max caster first (rear eccentric bolt all the way in/front all the way out), then adjust for camber, finally toe. You can map out the position of everything on your garage floor with a plumb bob and measure it to see how everything lays out squarely, but it takes some effort. While never being an an accident is good news, the factory specs from this era were pretty loose and its possible for any position to be up to an eighth out of ideal. Stack them all up and things can be off quite a bit. Same with a rear thrust measurement. Possible, but takes an effort to be as accurate as possible.



Pushing down on the back won't tell you much. You've got maybe a couple hundred pounds of force. The car will be exerting a couple thousand pounds of force. If it feels jittery over bumps, try softening the shock setting. You could also put it up in the air and move it through its motion to make sure it isn't binding since that was mentioned below.



T-bar adjustment height will impact rear height. If you are adjusting both front bars to be exact, it can throw off height in the rear. Adjust the passenger front up slightly to correct.



Could be weight jacking (or lack of) from the caster setting. Is this a low, medium, highspeed, left, right, both directions, does it take more or less effort one way or the other. Lots of things to dig into with this.



Can't see your hand in relation to the car's direction. It looks like a semi-abrupt turn. Maybe turning the wheel some before the tires catch up. Might have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch the steering box and linkage. As suggested by others, box mounting flex in the K frame as well as tolerance stack up from other components could all be factors in the turn in feel.

Overall combo seems like a good starting point. May be light on front sway bar. If you can find a large, empty parking lot, you can try some skid pad exercises to find out your suspension balance. walk out a 100' diameter circle, drive the circle 5 times left, 5 times right at increasing speed until you feel the front or rear of the car slide and you balance will become obvious. The car feels the combined difference between front and rear rates in both the springs and sway bars. Because of the front engine layout, you want more rate up front to handle the weight. The skid pad circle exercise will tell you which end needs more or less rate.

Yes, steering couplers wear. There are a couple of shoes inside them as well as the housing its self. There are rebuild kits out there for them. Also, if you have an adapter, that is another joint added to the system which can contribute to tolerance stack up.

Yea, TAs are not the best choice. If you want to stick with 15s try the MT SR. Its one of the newest 15" carcass designs out there, easily available, reasonably priced, with a relatively soft compound. Might also try stepping up front sizes as the narrower front tire will tend to understeer.