Some things to consider. A quality conversion to R134a can be accomplished but you need some R134a specific components. The condenser is different and the H valve or expansion valve is also different. The addition of an electric fan for the condenser also helps to keep the high side pressure down when sitting in traffic.

I did the conversion on my 92 D250. I used a R134a compatible condenser, a newer R134a H valve, a new compressor, evaporator and drier. Others maintain you need to change the hoses to the newer barrier style but I didn't do that as they are not available. Yeah I know I could have had them made but my hose ends are not in great shape and I didn't want to mess with them. So I flushed the hoses really well and used PAG oil because I work at a dealership and there are plenty of half used cans of the stuff sitting around. I also added two 8" electric pusher fans on the condenser.

Either way it works well, will cycle the compressor if it's not on high at around 38*. In the 5 years since I did the conversion I have not had to add any refrigerant. The biggest problem I have with the old gal is keeping the hot outside air out of the cab. If it wasn't for that this thing would cool awesome.


"Follow me the wise man said, but he walked behind"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.