As you probably know from the shop manual, the mechanical regulators are easy to adjust. 13.6 V isnt too of range - especially at idle, depending on temperature. So that part is easy. (Open it up, see if its dirty or something is loose or burned.)

To check the alternator output doing a full field test, it wouldn't hurt to briefly bring the engine rpms up to 1200. Voltage should go up with rpm since power into the field is not being regulated.

Might have bumped or tugged something when doing the swap.
From you last posts above, you've on the right path.

The regulator lets current through to the alternator's field. It decides how much current based on the voltage at the regulator on the blue wire. So if it sees lower voltage at that point due to resistance in the lines, it should send more current to the alternator's field. This results in a higher voltage at the alternator output than at the regulator input. (Field refers to the magnetic field generated by electricty going through the windings that are spinning).

It could have shown full discharge due to a short; but if it was showing say 10 - 15 amps discharge, that could simply have been the battery taking over because the alternator wasn't getting power in (field) OR the alternator's output couldn't connect.

When removing the bulkhead connectors, take your time. Unclip the top, the bottom and firmly work each one off. They may reclip themselves while yoiu do this. Take your time.

Remove male terminals by squeezing the barb part of the blade.

Remove the females by depressing the tab on top with a terminal removal tool or a thin screwdriver or cotter pin.


I'll attach a simplified diagram of the just the charging and headlamp circuit for a '68 - A. Your Coronet will be similar but not the same. Point is to make it easier to see the flow paths. Notice the ammeter only tells what is flowing to or from the battery.