Nacho - That is GREAT! I've not seen a fully graphed output for a Chrysler unit - and I've been looking. Lester # 7509 is a squareback, yes?

That is the shape of alternator outputs.
They are always in alternator/generator rpm, except the specs in the service manual. Service manual specs are for verification in the vehicle.

Lets look at the Beck Arnley test results. Really good struff in here.
RPM: Say the crank pulley is 6.5" and the Alt Pully is 2.625", then alternator wil be driven roughly 2.5 times faster than engine rpm.
Therefore idling at 600 rpm will = 1800 altenrator rpm.
& idling at 700 rpm (like with a A/C idle solenoid) will get 2100 rpm.
Big difference where it sits on that curve.

Output: "Output current tested at 13.20 volts" This is really important. 13.2 Volts is barely above battery float voltage, and maybe .4 volts above its real voltage. If the test was repeated with the same load, but voltage controlled to 14.5 volts, the current output would be lower. Most of the shop manual tests spec 1250 engine RPM, and 15 Volts. So to compare, the above test to factory specs we've been given, we need to do some math.

Turn On speed: Below this RPM the output is zero, zilch, zed. In the example using a pulley ratio of 2.5, that works out to 525 rpm.

Field current: This is what the rotor windings will draw at maximum demand, 7 Amps. That's 7 more amps from alternator to bulkhead to main splice, back through the bulkhead to the alternator field terminal, to regulator to ground. (Assuming later style voltage regulator). A good example of why having all connections in top shape is important. Of course if there's equipment to be drawing 81 amps, either there are bad connections, a dead battery being recharged, or a lot accessories... Nothing to really worry about unless there are electric fans or fuel pumps, etc.

The shop manuals I've looked at generally give field current draw for turning the alternator by hand! Something around 2+ amps at 12 Volts.