Everyone can do whatever they wish, and breaking in 1 engine, versus hundreds of engines will give you a totally different perspective, and especially engines of every variety and usage. You want to see stuff break? Try some boat engines, some truck pullers, and especially high RPM dirt track engines. Your eyes will open.Anyhow, here is a quick simple video, which has some valuable information. Most people like to just throw the term " high zinc" , or XXX PPM of zinc around, because thats what the oil companies with marketing budgets do.There is SOOOO much more to oil than that. I am in no way an oil expert, but I do pay attention, have years of running all sorts of engines, and have the fortunate insight into some private testing, that beats up oils every which way from Sunday.Lake and Driven , do a LOT of testing, and they engineer their products for every type of scenario. Its way more about using the right product for the application, than just a " favorite" marketed brand.That doesnt mean some of the common brands are bad, I'm simply saying there may be better, more usage specific, and better blended products for every application. Lake is involved with one of our private engine builder forums, and he often shares much of the information there. Its always good stuff.I learn something new every day.I also have spoke at length with Schaeffers, and have learned a bunch from them as well as my own experience.I also have some private test data as mentioned from others, and its really something to see when you start breaking down the components of oil.Oils ARE different.There is a fairly common oil brand out there now, that targets vintage cars etc, that people love, because its ' cheaper". It really doesnt test well, but again, they market it well. Is it " bad", well...I guess not, but are there " better" oils, absolutely.

What always shocks me, is someone will pay $5,000-$25,000 on an engine, then have issue with the price of the oil. I dont get it.Its the lifeblood of the engine.Even if its a 10 qt pan, and you spend $3.00 more per quart, wow, $30.00 . We'll blow that on lunch in a few days....lol

My example: If you had to have a blood transfusion, would you prefer it be from a 30 year old, healthy individual, who eats right, exercises, and has a long family history of longevity and healthiness, or would you choose your blood be from a 30 year old 65# crack [censored], who looks like 90 years old, and is strung out and been on crack and heroin for the last 15 years of their life? I mean hey, they both are blood right?Blood is blood isnt it?If you were charged by the pint for the blood, and could save $2.00 a pint, why not right? Its the better deal isnt it? You get the idea.

My point isnt to " just spend more" to get the trick of the day " chic"oil. its spend more to get a good oil, or more importantly the RIGHT oil.The right oil is based on needs, clearances, temperatures and so forth.

Dwayne and I had a conversation a while back , and it was because of hydraulic cams and lifters. The hydraulic lifter stuff is getting more technical,as far as requirements and adjustments.I have changed my oil for those builds, based on manufacturer feedback and requirements. I had my choice of product, it worked, and I didnt have issue, BUT, I found there to be what I felt was a better choice. Its also easier to work with a manufacture, when you use their suggested oil, and can share better data that way.

OK, enough of my rambling, just my 2 cents. Watch the video if you will, there is always something to be gained.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/DrivenRacingOil/videos/?ref=page_internal


RIP Monte Smith

Your work is a reflection of yourself, autograph it with quality.

WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.