As to the "flat spring" issue - spring rate and mounting points normally dictate ride height. IMO if the mount points are in the stock location, the car at ride height should be in the middle 1/3 of the shock travel, and preferably right in the middle. A car almost sitting on the bump stops defiantly has an issue, and most likely it is not enough spring rate. Personally I like to see about 2-2 1/2" of arch between the center of the mounting bolts and the surface of the center pin at ride height, and I adjust my mount points and/or spring rate accordingly. And also IMO the replacement springs offered today are not the same quality as the OEM's were.


That said - the sooner you realize that any spring, by nature, is designed to store and release energy, and really doesn't have any business mounting a drive axle to a (performance) car, the farther ahead you will be. Anytime you look at a successful leaf sprung car, you will see that they have eliminated the spring action from the front segment - be it Caltracs, SS springs, slapper bars, spring clamps, etc. Can leaf springs be made to work? Yes, usually at the expense of ride quality, because again - you have to stiffen the front segment to eliminate spring deflection/wrap-up. Leaf springs are a cost effective way to mount a drive axle, not an efficient one.