RapidRobert,

I did what you suggested, no spark.
I wanted to update this thread for future reference, and thanks for all your help guys!

-I went to O'reilly's and picked up an A-1 Cardone Distributor el-Cheapo just to get the vacuum advance cannister. The Distributor we picked up from the swap meet is for a 1969 RR, 383 Automatic, and that's the same distributor I ordered from O'Reilly's, the vacuum advance cannister matched and installed perfectly.
-We cleaned up the points distributor we picked up at the swap meet, put in new points/condenser and installed.
-Installed a manual choke cable
-I kept buying cheaper ballast resistors, specifically ones that were rated at 1 ohm. When we tested them on the bench, they would be 1.5 ohm cold... I bought a MSD brand ballast resistor part # MSD-8214 and hallelujah, it is rated at 0.8 Ohm, and tested 0.8 Ohm.

-Installed the 0.8 Ohm MSD Resistor.
-Car fired up, timed 36Degrees at 3,000 RPM.
-Car ran around town for about 2 hours no problems.

-It is vapor locking when sitting in driveway running. The heat from the engine is soaking into the fuel line/carb. So, we are going to install that Fuel line insulation on the lines under the hood, check the carb float bowl levels. When driving around, no vapor lock, just when sitting for more than 10 minutes idling....

-My Brother and his friend who does a lot of racing, say the car isn't full power, it's missing a lot of HP's. He says it has a lumpy cam in it. Unfortunately I don't have any documentation from the PO on the cam. I have docs on the restoration, tranny, everything except the cam.
-I think we need to rebuild the Holley 4160. When I looked at the car in April, the PO when we started it, you could really smell a varnishy smell. When you look at the carb, it's black color inside, just looks dirty..

-My brother and his friends think the vacuum secondaries are not coming on fully. has good vacuum at idle.
-They said that the idle is weird. When cold you bump up the idle screw to keep it running, RPM's correct.. Then when it warms up, the idle is faster and you have to almost adjust it down to get it normal idle speed..

I think we'll just rebuild the carb, because I think the ignition is good to go...

In the end, The Mopar Performance Chrome box setup, I was running a Resistor that measured out 1.5 ohms... I never did try the MSD 0.8 Ohms resistor on that setup, because we switched over to the original points distributor, so I can't really say if that MSD 0.8 resistor would have corrected the mopar performance loss of spark?

All the messing around we did/troubleshooting sometimes you get to a point you just want it to run and go on.

My Brother did say, it is a relief to work on these older cars that are so simple to diagnose and work on. The other day he was working on a brand new Hybrid Lincoln MKZ. Front left LED light indicator was out because customer lightly scraped front bumper. He had a book 3 inches deep with electrical info on the car. Just the front bumper has $5,000 worth of sensors and modules in it, so everything is relative boys!

The old distributor is in the front of the picture, it cleaned up pretty good compared to the first pic I posted of it!