An option is to weigh the items yourself. HF has a gram scale for ten dollars and it is accurate (same as my buddies' high dollar one). only difficult part is to have the centerlines of the rod horizontle by suspending one end on a fixture with a horizontle rod and the other end (whichever end you are weighing) on the scale. with each piston assigned to a particular rod grind (& finish polish) each rod small end until each rod small end/piston/pin/rings/locks (if used) are the same to the other (8) & and is the reciprocating part of the formula. Then weigh the rod big end with bearings and this is the rotating part of the formula & grind (& polish) the pad on that end to get em all equal. You are calculating the "bobweight" that a crank rod journal (theres 4 of em) sees which is (2) rod/piston assys on each. for the final number double the reciprocating weight of (1) assy cuz there are 2 assys on a particular journal but you cut that in half (in effect the weight of (1) assy) and on the rotating weight of the rod big end/bearing halves you double that for the (2) assys (& you dont cut that one in half) add the two together and that is the number you give the man along with the crank/crank bolts/flywheel/clutch and the harmonic dampener (saves alot of shop labor time). if this ain't in the cards for you then here is a BTT for ya. the only hard part of this is the center of the dia of the open "holes" at each end of the rod need to be horizontle to each other (good/carefull measureing) and the rod needs to be level side to side (use the parting line on the big end works and a magic marker mark on 12 0 clock on the small end works and some shops weigh one end then subtract that from the rod+bearings overall weight to get the weight of the other end (I forgot which end they weigh). working on the rod get repeateable readings several times in a row & then your dead on