I see over and over to never just bolt a set of aftermarket aluminum heads on to an engine without having them checked out first.

I would like to learn how to do this myself.

Let's use 440Source Stealth heads as an example of a head that people say you shouldn't try to just bolt on and run right OOTB.

First, the valve springs. Now even their own website says to not use them on any cam with over .510 of lift. I have a cam that is .534 lift but if I call Engle they will say to use valve springs that are rated the exact same as what the Stealth heads come with OOTB. So is there any reason to not use the valve springs the Stealth heads come with as long as the spring rate matches what the cam manufacturer recommends?

Next, the locks and retainers that come on Stealth heads. If they are using Comp Cams locks and retainers now, is there any reason to change these to the 10 degree locks and retainers they are now recommending for any cam over .460 lift? I've read that 7 degree locks have a better bite when used with springs with mild pressures (125/300)? I guess I don't get the point of changing Comp Cam 7 degree locks and retainers for another set of Comp Cams 7 degree locks and retainers or am I missing something?

Valve job: I see people saying the valve job on the Stealth heads is so-so, can I just hand lap the valves in and call it good? Or do they need to be brought into a machine shop and redone? Is there a way to check at home if it is any good?

Valve guide clearance too tight: This is another thing people report on Stealth and Edelbrock heads, is this something I can check by feel? In other words, if the valve stem seems to go freely into the guide and not feel like it's binding when assembling the head, is it good to go?

Anything else someone can check themselves at home? Thanks!