Since you asked, and I have a VERY similar combo and car weight and since I have been "through it" with the timing, let me share with you what I found. First, with the exception of our trans, (I have a 727/Gear Vendor w/3,000 converter), our cars are very much the same. In my experience, you don't have a CLUE where your timing is until you verify it YOURSELF! First thing, where is top dead center on #1. Think about it, did your balancer, timing chain cover come off the assembly line together? If they did are they accurate? Mine came from a hodge podge of parts. My "professional" engine builder said that when we dynoed the engine it made more power @ 32 degrees vs. 34 degrees. 635HP@ 5,900 rpm. WRONG! When I put it in the car and started driving it,it didn't "feel" right so I checked the true TDC with a piston stop that I made from an old plug. I am embarrassed to tell you how many degrees it was off! Lesson one, don't ASSUME ANYTHING!. So first thing is, KNOW where TDC #1 REALLY is! Step #2, your engine will TELL you how much initial timing it wants, with a warm engine, use a vacuum gauge on a MANIFOLD port. Increase timing until the gauge is "topped out". Then adjust idle circuit until gauge it at highest point. THEN check initial timing @ idle. Then slowly with no load, increase rpms until you see the total timing and at what rpm. If it is over 35, you will have to limit the curve. I won't go into that as I am already "long" on this post and I don't know what kind of distributor you have. I had to take mine apart, weld shut the advance slots, check, pull, grind weld slowly, and check again etc. A long process but, when I was done, I found my engine liked 35 TRUE degrees total and 20 degrees at 1,000 rpm idle. After driving it "before" and "after", I am SHURE that I am making at least what the dyno showed!