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With your engine I would use the bolts, since that was what it was align honed with. The Studs, because their shank is fatter then the bolts are sure to push those caps out of their alignment. If you want to use the studs, redo the align hone for them.

Im sure your measurements will confirm that. You really don't need the studs though with your combo. But if the blocks still bare, use them and rehone.



Thanks for the reply. I don't want to reuse the original bolts, so would I need to re-hone if I get some ARP bolts?



As long as the ARP bolts are torqued to the same value as the stock bolts , which they would be , not an issue.



I have installed studs on the mains before and I really don't see how the cap can move a substantial amount after they are "tapped" into place How does the cap know what's holding it in place The only place the cap can move is fore and aft and #3 is the only cap that will really matter on the thrust surface
Gus



It has nothing to do with the caps moving ... the caps are located in the block by the register step in the block ... studs are torqued to a different value than bolts ... HIGHER ... this higher value can/will distort the main bores ... make them not round.

that's why you go with better bolts or studs to start with - for the additional clamping power - which of course you would defeat by using the same torque spec as the factory bolts. As said, only real way is to measure, but why pay for better stuff if you are not going to utilize it. If I remember correctly, factory main bolts = 90 ft lbs. ARP studs = 105 ft lbs. Those are recommended torque specs. 15 additional lbs will most likely require remachining the bores. If the OP is trying to stay away from remachining costs, maybe a new set of factory bolts would be a good compromise .

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