My '64Dog is a D100 longbed, which in 1964 had a 122" wheelbase. The next year it increased to 128.

I have towed for thousands of miles with a 318 and either 3.91s or 3.23s, most with a 32" tall tire. My 8 3/4 is the 741 case. Here are my observations.

Towing with a half-ton is problematic because the trailer ends up ateering the truck. For one thing, the springs aren't that strong and allow side-to-side movement between axle and frame. In my situation I also blame the shorter wheelbase because the longer distance between axle and bumper gives the trailer more leverage. I usually end up setting rear tire pressure at 75psi to eliminate flex. But, with a normal size car, say 3500lb, I have to limit speed to around 55. Anything faster is just too shaky. And that's on the flats, although Long Island is, as you say, pretty flat.

About the engine, I towed with the stock poly 318 with 2-barrel but dual exhaust. I wasn't winning any drag races but it would get me going faster than I was comfortable with. And going up the Front Range of the Rockies, I was in Second gear with the loaded semis.

For towing I wouldn't worry too much about the power, much more about the chassis. For towing with a shortbed, I know people tow with Ramchargers, and they are pretty short.

If you could find a shortbed in "heavy half-ton" configuration, that may be the best you can do. You're at sea level and I'd say for occasional towing a 3.55 rear should be adequate. Again, those gears are not hard to find under Ramchargers in 9 1/4 rears. Or, going back in time, in 8 3/4s under many half-tons with manual transmissions.

People here will have you driving a one-ton Diesel Ram to tow three times a year, so don't pay them much attention. It's easy to spend someone else's money. As long as you are willing to go slow, it'll work. Oh, and a good set of trailer brakes will cover a multitude of braking problems. I've never had any problems with my stock drums.

R.