Going to do it over a few days...one handed so as to not over exert myself.

The Patient: 69 Charger 440, 4 core Radiator, factory cast iron housing/pump. Viscous Clutch. 7 blade fan, and aluminum heads. I havent EVER flushed the block (been driving her for 12 years but only have 17,000 miles on the motor). Been drained twice due to manifold flange repair....and second for head replacement.

I wanna get the goo and gunk out of the block. I have it currently at a 50/50 mix but with crappy pre-mixed coolant (all they sold here). My Radiator Cap's sacrificial anode doubled in size, subsequently checking the pH level gave me 7.2.

I have REAL Prestone pure Glycol. I have a Prestone system flush+cleaner. VP Racing Cool Down (not sold anymore) I also want to swap out to my cast aluminum housing and water pump from Mancini since it has the anti-cav plate on the pump.

In my infinite knowledge. I want to drain the cooling system, raising the back end off the ground to drain as much of the block as possible. Fill it with the system flush and cleaner, top it off with tap water...drive it, get her hot...cool down...drain the system again. Remove/Replace water pump run compressed air into the engine block. Let it air dry for a day or two. Come back, install the new water pump, fill it with 2 gallons of pure Prestone....Now...some people have told me to use De-Ionized water (for irons) because Distilled water is still impure. Any thoughts on that? I also want to throw in one bottle of VP Cooldown to keep my temps down. When I first built the engine, I had my cooling system at 170º-180º all day long. In traffic, driving, uphill....I would never break 190º. I find the system has slowly climbed over they years to 220º hence, its time for a flush and seriously, that 7.2pH level scares me. I have another sacrificial anode for the radiator and I also plan on putting a zinc anode in the Mancini water pump housing.

Is any part of my drain/restore process incorrect?