Quote:

Quote:

Rubber.



When you tightened down the LCA pin to the K-member with the car level side to side at ride height, the pin slightly moved or the adjuster arm socket was not 100% in contact with the screw adjuster pin. Tough to see when the car is on the ground.

The rubber bushing is directly pressed in the adjuster arm housing. And then the pin is pressed directly to the bushing. So wherever you bolt the pin into the K-member the adjuster arm will be clocked in that same position at rest with no load.

The rubber flexes with the LCA moves up and down. Just try you best to get it neutral flex at ride height zero position to minimize the amount of flexing at extremes of travel.



Thanks for the complement, of assuming I tightened it at the ride height, of which I didn't. I was going to let the car down from jack stands to make it easier to do some work under the hood (full restoration) then come back around to the suspension last after I get the motor running in the car.

I spotted the gap at the swivel just before I lowered the car down

Now, after your explaining the bushing twist after tightening at ride height,...I'm concerned about my tightened at full rebound, then being at full twist when I let the car down.

Anything to be concerned about?

Or do I need to lift it back up, loosen the pins, lower to roughly ride height, (of which I don't know where I want it yet) & re-tighten, for the bushing's sake?

In the past if I needed some work in the front suspension I went to a friends front end shop.

This being a restoration I figured its time I learn & try to set up all that I can, & maintain, of these new parts.