• My 0.9" bars will likely be going for 1.1" bars, from what I see that is the common upgrade diameter/rate for E-bodies. Brand? Mopar Performance? Other?
  
  
  I've got the 1.22" and I like them. I found mine on sale when there were no other options.
  
  
• My original strut rods are toast, bent up, chewed up threads, they'll be going. I would imagine there are aftermarket upgrades to reduce longitudinal compliance in the LCAs over what the factory was able to get done. Brand recommendation?
  
  Firm feel, Hotchkis, any will do.
  
  
• The car has Cordoba 11-3/4" slider brakes on it, with the late B-body knuckles. I have to go back and check, but I think those are not the ideal knuckles to be running.
  
  I think they're fine for now, the next step up is to find a factory drum spindle and go with a 11.75" c body with a viper caliper from dr diff. About $600...but there are also $800-1200 kits that use a better caliper and 13" rotor.
  
  
• LCA pivots, I see Hotchkis has some greasible units, worth the money? Someone else?
  
  I've got firm feel pins with poly bushings.
  
  
• Tie rods, my stockers are worn out and need replacing. The $350 ones Hotchkis has are sure nice, but I will have to look at DIYing those with some 5/8" rod ends, 4130 tubing and tube adapters. I could likely TIG a set of those up pretty quickly.
  
  
  I like the C-body tie rod ends and sleeves on a budget. That's what I've got.
  
  
• UCAs - Worth replacing? My stockers have relatively new MOOG joints in them, I had an issue with the passenger side pushing the threads out, so it was tightened and tacked. Needless to say, I'm not trilled with the arms I have at the moment.
  
  I would splurge on a set of Hotckis tubulars if you can't reuse your originals
  
  
  
  
• Sway bar[s]. I have an OEM front sway bar, adding a rear would likely be worth upgrading. With the increase in torsion bar rate and perhaps some adjustable dampers, I may not dive into a front bar just yet.
  

I like hellwig for the dollar. Hotchkis is a close second.

Metal-work
As far as the K-member itself goes. I've been told to look it over for cracked welds, perhaps finishing up some factory welds as well. I am not aware of any areas that are prone to flexing around, does the steering box generally need any more support?

Lots of welding and guessting. I would use the firm feel kit.