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35 is about right to start with with a small block. My 360 ran best at about 32. IMO 50 is too much.
Not with vacuum advance included it isn't. I hope everyone realizes that phasing the rotor only adjusts it in one specific point and that as timing is added or taken away (be it vacuum or mechanical advance) the phasing changes. Unless you are running a locked rotor or running a race only setup phasing a rotor is not something to sweat. In a street car it's a waste of time unless the rotor is so far off that it's a manufacturing defect.
I phased mine so at full advance it's lined up the most with the terminal. I don't have vacuum advance. My initial timing is 22 degrees with 36 total, all in at just over 2000 rpm. My rotor doesn't move very far when I measure it with a timing light through the hole I drilled in an old cap.
My MSD Pro billet was about as far off as it could be when I first checked it. It was effectively between the two terminals. I had to drill a second hole in the cap just to see where it was! The thing was arching back to the correct terminal big time. I was surprised it ran after finding that.
Later, I heard its not that uncommon with MSD distributors.
I disagree that street cars should not be at least checked. It's never a waste of time to optimize the phasing, so the tip of the rotor lines up in with the terminal through most of the range of advance, be it mechanical or vacuum. I believe in favoring setting the rotor to line up with the terminal where it will spend the most time, usually at mid to higher rpms that are seen on the highway or around the city.
Last edited by jbc426; 09/08/14 01:53 AM.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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