That's right, they are NOT torque-to-yield.

You can torque them in two steps or I usually do three.

A torque-to-yield bolt usually tightens to a certain torque and then you turn the bolt so many degrees.

When I was torquing the head bolts on my 318, I found at least two different torque values for LA motors.

R.

I've been thinking about this. It always takes more torque to start the bolt moving than it takes to keep it moving. A more technical way of saying this is that the static coefficient of friction is greater than the moving coefficient of friction. SO, if you take too many baby steps, the last step you may hit the required torque value just trying to start the bolt. Unfortunately the bolt won't really be torqued correctly, but it will appear so. So you need to start far enough back that your starting torque is comfortably lower than your target torque.
This is more easily seen with a dial indicator type torque wrench.