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I mean I just found stainless steel headers for $ 475!
Those will not work in your car. The engine will not sit down far enough. The collectors will come thru the firewall right where your feet sit.
It's a pain to piece together as stated above. I have two that I built personally. The heads I got as a package deal so everything was correct. And this is the most important.
The short block assy is a bit easier but still have to be careful. Even though there is one dedicated R5 block, these blocks have many variables. There are two different crank seal styles 1 piece and 2 piece. Depending on which seal type you have it requires a different style crank. A 1 piece rear main seal block will not work with a 2 piece rear main seal crank and vice versa. Now between the two crank styles there are 3 different rod journals Chevy, IRL, and Honda. Once you figure all this out then you will have 3 different crank flanges you will end up with. The 6 bolt chevy, 6 bolt ford, or the 8 bolt nascar flange.
I used the older stuff from early 2000's. Just because it easier to work with since they used the chevy journals and the pistons used .927 pins and .043 and 1/16 ring packs. The later stuff is ridiculous in the various different size wrist pins and ring packs.
The downside is a lot of the older stuff is being held on very tightly and is very hard to find.
Also if you're going with a manual, be prepared to spend money to make that trans shift at 9000+ Rpms. A 833 wont do it no matter how much you want it to. Most of these engines don't make good power til around 6500-7000 but once the rpms get there be ready cause all he77 is gonna break loose 
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