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And no, before the rebuild I didnt have the hesitation problem, it ran great.

If nothing was altered but the carb I would start back there for the hesitation cause. For the timing I would set the initial with the "vacuum gauge method" starting with 15BTDC then shorten the slots to get 36-38 (depends on octane/quench) then play with springs & toss the heavy spring with the elongated loop on one end & sub in a mr gasket or MP light spring & keep the OE light spring for a starting combo & staying just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest day then hookup the vac adv & solder strips of feeler gauges on the back side to limit the notched arms' travel into the pod staying just under the pinging point at a steady interstate cruise (high vacuum) speed at an RPM at or above the point where the mech slots are maxed out (full advance) then in everyday driving stay just under the pinging point & adj with a 3/32" allen wrench in the pod nipple & CCW slows the onset of the curve. Alot of work but ALOT of gain to be had. Must be done IN ORDER. Note that vacuum advance will alter rotor phasing & can contribute to misfiring if the rotor tip gets far enough away from the underside of the metal cap terminal. NAPA offers an Echlin MO3000 rotor that has an .060" longer blade for $8 & change out the door & there's several ways to alter rotor phasing. Drill a 1/2" hole in the top flat of your dist cap 2/3 of the way between the center terminal and the #1 terminal & freeze the rotor by shining your timing light straight down in there when running & note that ONLY the vac adv (from eng load change) changes rotor phasing position.

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