No more points, but a few thoughts and a couple more questions.

The OP probably should note that ALMOST everyone in this thread had recommended the 3310.

I am a little lost on the concept of restoring a carb in this thread. The OP wants a recommendation on a style and size of carb. I didn't see any reference to "correct" or OE looking in his question. And why would anyone spend the coin on a used carb, that then needs more money spent on it than a new one would cost?

You should be able to get most 4150 style carb cleaned and gasketed for $100 or so including gaskets. If it needs more than that spent on it, it would probably have been a bad choice to begin with.

For most of us, an electric choke is more trouble than it's worth. Which is why most of these type of carbs are still offered without them.

I'll say again, the CarterBrock style of carbs are MECHANICAL secondaries. Just like a Double Pumper Holley. The difference between those is the type of secondary actuation enrichment. Holley uses accelerator pumps, while the CarterBrocks use the air valve to pull extra fuel from the boosters.

I guess the CarterBrocks are easier to get apart. But when it comes to tuning, have you seen the rod/jet chart in the tuning manual? What a nightmare, and I would like to see someone try to tune one without the chart.

For this application, I do not see the value of the secondary metering block. The primary is where most if not all the street tuning happens. You basically tune the WOT mix with the secondaries and that is usually pretty close to begin with. I rarely need to change much if anything on the secondaries, if the idle mix isn't too far off. And then I can get it close with the primaries anyway.

I do a agree that the Double Pumper would be a poor choice here. But not necessarily because it has mechanical secondaries. But because it is metered for the track, which is way too rich for this kind of street application.