I never tuned a dominator I know there are two and three circuit styles. I found with my 750dp it ran great on the highway or nailing it but the off idle cruise was horribly fat. Barring a direct suggestion from someone that knows exactly what to do on that carb you are going to need a combination of vacuum gauge, shutdown and read a plug or watch a wideband. That will tell you what circuits on the carb are active and then you can start learning how to lean or richen them up.

On mine the Idle Feed Restriction (IFR) is in the metering block and controls the richness of the emulsified fuel that is metered by the four corner idle screws that then comes out from the round hole below the butterfly, and what comes out of the transfer slot before the main jets kick in. This is the circuit that is feeding the motor with just a little throttle (like most of the time when there's other people in front of me) I don't know how much of that transfers over to the Dommy. You can also attack the problem by adding or removing air with the Low Speed Air Bleeds and High Speed Air Bleeds (LSAB HSAB) but be careful they also delay/speed up when the mains come in.

The vacuum gauge will show you when the power valve if you have one comes in- if it's right you should feel it lean slightly out then pick up when it comes on.

Don't forget the circuits don't turn off they just add to each other so start at idle then off idle then primary jets/PV then secondary jets. You can easily tune for WOT at the track, it takes a lot of tinkering to get it perfect on the street. It shouldn't be too hard to get it acceptable where you don't knock or foul plugs and drivability is decent even if it's not perfect.

Again- no dominator experience here, but I've been forced to learn my way around my holley by the people in my neck of the woods that all seem to go 35 in a 40 and tap their brakes all the time for no reason.

Good Luck
radar