If there's any interest I can put a caliper on the links and post pics. Just let me know.

Eyeballing it, I believe there may be a slight difference in the links, nothing tremendous though, because the teeth in the non-roller are actually longer than they need to be.

What I wanted to do was lay the sprockets flat on top of each other, and sight them, so I did it that way. Can't see any huge difference in the teeth from that viewpoint. But viewing the parts from the side...the roller sprocket teeth are twice as wide (or more) than non-roller.

The roller sprocket, won't even come close to fitting in the double non-roller chain.

But, the non-roller sprocket does fit into the roller chain very nicely.

I tend to get hung up on little details like that, once in awhile something like that will pay off....but in this case? Probably a waste of time True roller is better and there's not really app. that would not benefit from that, rather than non-roller.

Going one step further: Could always degree a camshaft with the non-roller sprockets, and both types of chains.... but I probably won't go there.

I just wish the whole aftermarket industry would resolve the "double roller" vs "true roller" vs "true double roller" marketing thing because it is very misleading.
A guy just starting out does not understand what he's getting.

Another thing? "Billet steel gears!".
More marketing.....
Even an OEM stock single chain timing set has a steel crank gear.
As for the cam gear? I have a
Direct Connection timing set from 1987 with an iron cam gear that I ran for 14 seasons....the car was was driven daily for a few years too not just a hot rod, the chain is quite stretched out.....but guess how much wear is on the iron cam gear? Practically nothing.

Needless to say I'm developing a few opinions based off of this stuff, on the type of engine I tend to mess with