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Summit or Amazon.com sells Q-jet books. I think you can help Moparts by ordering from this website.

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Probably a good idea.

Being a former GM rat, I am very familiar with Rochester carbs. The Qjet is an excellent mixer, but it is not without it's quirks.

The two adjusters in front are the idle mixture screws (only relative to the idle circuit, baseline is 1.5 turns out.)
The float level is very important and a rebuild kit will give you instructions and a measuring tool.
THe secondary butterflies are the trick to top end and WOT response. The linkage that mechanically open the secondaries must not open until the primaries are 3/4 open and then the secondaries must open fully when primaries are open completely.
The are baffle butterfly on top is the trick to the secondary mixture. As the secondaries open, the airflow pulls the baffle open against spring pressure (adjustable under the end of one side of the baffle axis. You'll need a small allen, a tiny screwdriver and lot of patience. Careful not to over tighten this, it will break. And if it is too loose, you'll flood the cylinders.) The secondary fuel metering rods hang off the elbow screwed to the center of this cam lifted pinion. Carefully remove this tiny screw and lift out the rods. Hang them freely with the elbow on a flat surface and ensure that the rods hang straight. The depth at which these rods hang will affect the fuel curve of your secondaries.

There are a lot of little tricks, but if you follow the adjustments in a rebuild kit and don't try to 'HotRod' it, you should only have to treak in the spring pressure of the seconday air butterfly. (As a general rule, it should feel considerably stiff when trying to push it down against the static spring pressure.) Also, if the secondary air baffle has the choke lock on the front of the baffle edge, get rid of it. (Not the primary choke baffle, you need that.)

Good luck!